What I learned building "comfortable" LED strip lighting
6 comments
I doubt you learned anything as all your posts are em-dashes LLM outputs about lightning.
Well, at least I learned a thing or two from this, or more like, to keep in mind for my next time messing with lights.
On diffusing them, I've had lamp shades that were adequate on paper but still didn't feel right; one eye would hurt and a headache would start (it has its own cause, after getting lasik a decade ago, I still see great but uneven light triggers a migraine) couldn't pinpoint until I started playing around this, rather than just limiting myself to intensity, temperature and the standard diffusion.
On diffusing them, I've had lamp shades that were adequate on paper but still didn't feel right; one eye would hurt and a headache would start (it has its own cause, after getting lasik a decade ago, I still see great but uneven light triggers a migraine) couldn't pinpoint until I started playing around this, rather than just limiting myself to intensity, temperature and the standard diffusion.
> Questions for folks who’ve done larger installs (10–50m) or more “production” setups:
> Do you design power delivery first or physical layout first?
I’m not sure I understand the question, power delivery isn’t designed, you calculate how much power you need and then buy an LED driver that outputs enough power.
LED drivers are typically 24W or 96W, so if you use LED tape that needs 2W/ft you can power 12’ with a 24W driver and 48’ with a 96W driver. You can use multiple drivers in a single installation, just keep the 12VDC output cables to the tape light approximately the same length.
> Any favorite diffuser/channel profiles that minimize hotspots without killing too much output?
Deep channel with a regular diffuser, preferably architectural/commercial grade. WAC Lighting makes decent stuff. You can get high output LED tape too, 200 lumens per ft which is 8W per foot, so a 12’ run would be 2400 lumens and 96W.
Cove lighting using LED tape is my favorite, it gives off a nice indirect light but building coves in a ceiling is time consuming.
> For long addressable runs, what’s your go-to strategy for signal conditioning (buffers, differential, etc.)?
I would use a DMX controller with shielded cables and let the equipment handle that.
> Do you design power delivery first or physical layout first?
I’m not sure I understand the question, power delivery isn’t designed, you calculate how much power you need and then buy an LED driver that outputs enough power.
LED drivers are typically 24W or 96W, so if you use LED tape that needs 2W/ft you can power 12’ with a 24W driver and 48’ with a 96W driver. You can use multiple drivers in a single installation, just keep the 12VDC output cables to the tape light approximately the same length.
> Any favorite diffuser/channel profiles that minimize hotspots without killing too much output?
Deep channel with a regular diffuser, preferably architectural/commercial grade. WAC Lighting makes decent stuff. You can get high output LED tape too, 200 lumens per ft which is 8W per foot, so a 12’ run would be 2400 lumens and 96W.
Cove lighting using LED tape is my favorite, it gives off a nice indirect light but building coves in a ceiling is time consuming.
> For long addressable runs, what’s your go-to strategy for signal conditioning (buffers, differential, etc.)?
I would use a DMX controller with shielded cables and let the equipment handle that.
What kind of rooms are you lighting up? I like LED strips enough to use them as a main light source a lot of the time, but if you really want to make a room "pop" you still need floor lamps, recessed lights, hanging, and wall lights to highlight/accent certain things and make a cozy atmosphere for guests.
For longer runs, like along all the undercabinet + above cabinet spaces in a large kitchen, I just run the jumpers as 120V and put the transformer/drivers somewhere hidden at the start of each segment, so if I have 3 segments I prefer to have 3 separate drivers all controlled by the same switch.
Have you tried COB strips? They largely get rid of the need for diffusers if the goal is to simply not see dots. Diffusers are still useful if you want to change the "texture" of the light.
For longer runs, like along all the undercabinet + above cabinet spaces in a large kitchen, I just run the jumpers as 120V and put the transformer/drivers somewhere hidden at the start of each segment, so if I have 3 segments I prefer to have 3 separate drivers all controlled by the same switch.
Have you tried COB strips? They largely get rid of the need for diffusers if the goal is to simply not see dots. Diffusers are still useful if you want to change the "texture" of the light.
Get COB strips, good ones are essentially dotless.
You'll still have the contrast between the strip and the background, though. You have to hide the strip in a clever way, there are all sorts of hacks and decorative elements out there. However, that's also why all stuff done entirely with LED strips looks kind of cheesy, there's always a visible gradient. Designing it without gradients is the tricky part, and it usually means you need spotlights and other types of sources for the main lighting.
You'll still have the contrast between the strip and the background, though. You have to hide the strip in a clever way, there are all sorts of hacks and decorative elements out there. However, that's also why all stuff done entirely with LED strips looks kind of cheesy, there's always a visible gradient. Designing it without gradients is the tricky part, and it usually means you need spotlights and other types of sources for the main lighting.
Photos?
A few notes that surprised me:
Power planning > “just buy a bigger PSU.” Long runs behave like distributed loads. Voltage drop shows up as uneven brightness, and on RGB/RGBW it can show up as color shift (“white” gets warmer at the far end). The fix isn’t only wattage—it’s where you feed power, wire gauge, and connector losses.
Diffusion is not cosmetic. Without enough distance or diffusion, you get hotspots and glare. A cheap milky diffuser in an aluminum channel gets you most of the way there, but what helped the most was increasing LED-to-diffuser distance (depth of the channel) rather than chasing “premium” diffusers.
Indirect beats direct for comfort. Bouncing light off a wall/desk surface looked dimmer on paper but felt more usable and less fatiguing. It also hid the fact that LEDs are point sources.
Signal integrity is a separate problem (for addressable). A lot of “flicker” is actually data/ground/reference issues, not power. Short data lines, solid ground, and sometimes level shifting helped more than swapping power supplies.
Questions for folks who’ve done larger installs (10–50m) or more “production” setups:
Do you design power delivery first or physical layout first?
Any favorite diffuser/channel profiles that minimize hotspots without killing too much output?
For long addressable runs, what’s your go-to strategy for signal conditioning (buffers, differential, etc.)?