Your Roku had to "boot" for 10s - why? Would resume from standby in a couple of seconds, so you've chosen to slow yourself down.
My TCL TV runs Android/Google TV, wakes from standby in 2s while also waking the surround in ~3s via HDMI CEC (and I don't need to hear anything until I've chosen something to play) so really it only take me 2s before I can start to open a streaming app (via a button on my remote) vs your 16s to get to the same point.
It's the choosing what to play that's the slow bit for me - every app puts what you were last watching in a different place, and not all apps notify Google TV so its own attempt at letting you resume is incomplete...
It also frustrates me that profiles streaming apps don't link to profiles for the OS (e.g. Google TV) - seems obvious to me that by now they should all be seamlessly linked together in a way that delivers the most personalised experience, instead of muddling up everyone's profiles and watch history!
Rather a shame that page with the abstract has excessively large & linespaced body text which makes it hard to actually read on mobile... that the chat feature assumes you must be a student not anyone else... and the Contact Us is buried many levels deep in the nav... hence me giving up and telling you about the above here.
Kind of, using it became known as "AJAX" and it took many many years (and the addition of promises to JS) before the more sophisticated "Fetch API" became available.
Even then usage of AJAX declined rather slowly as it was so established, and indeed even now it's still used by many websites!
You're mostly spot on but your last sentence is flawed, as it's chloramines that are the problem with pools, not chlorine, and urine is all-too-often the root cause
I have two Chromecast Audio devices which similarly provide both analogue and optical digital outputs, but they seem to be much more expensive second hand than the Airplay alternative.
Details are scarce so I'm speculating, but it's likely configurable so you can set it to unlock only if actually pressed/clicked rather than just touched, which should solve the problem.
While the phone is on, the power/fingerprint button "also acts as an extra input, allowing you to pull down the notification shade by swiping across the button – or set it to refresh a page, scroll to the top, or control media playback if you prefer." [1]
Wow, then presumably those merchants will likely fail, or they will spot the negative impact of Klarna in time (before failure) and switch to something else, or Klarna will change their checkout process to address this issue.
I've always thought it ludicrous that a smartwatch (like the Apple watch) should have to be charged daily - makes it pretty much useless to me, especially if it can't even tell the time! I realise that the latest Apple watches last longer but I still find them overengineered and ridiculous.
Since nobody else seems to have mentioned it, I'll mention that I've been delighted to have an AmazFit Bip (with a 176x176 colour e-ink transflective screen) on my wrist for almost 4 years now (I previously had a Pebble) and it still goes at least 3 weeks between charges (previously more like 4 weeks) despite being connected to Bluetooth, taking my pulse every few minutes, and selectively relaying notifications to my wrist.
See https://m.gsmarena.com/amazfit_bip_review_another_shot_at_th... for details but many models have been released in the years since 2018, with higher resolution screens, they last even longer between charges ("up to 45 days") plus allow you to reply with preset messages and control music (sadly lacking from the model I have especially since the Pebble could do that) so perhaps I should treat myself to an upgrade sometime.
I recommend running Universal Android Debloater [1] on all Samsung devices (I have 2 of them) plus other manufacturers are even worse (e.g. Xiaomi) and the same accept works wonders on them too.
In addition to the above advice about copper/ADSL, if any of your sockets are still live after unplugging whatever you can and/or you actually want to use a phone, you should also plug filters into ALL of your live sockets (whether they have something plugged into them or not).
For the ultimate, cleanest & best connection you can remove the faceplate of the master socket to reveal the "test socket" [1] (which in so doing disconnects every other socket in the house) and then plug a filter & your ADSL modem directly into that socket, or fit a replacement faceplate e.g. [2],[3]
Yeah, seeing huge marketing spend by an organisation that's not a massive brand with deep pockets always makes me wonder where the money is coming from
"While AMP itself isn't a ranking factor, speed is a ranking factor for Google Search. Google Search applies the same standard to all pages, regardless of the technology used to build the page."
My TCL TV runs Android/Google TV, wakes from standby in 2s while also waking the surround in ~3s via HDMI CEC (and I don't need to hear anything until I've chosen something to play) so really it only take me 2s before I can start to open a streaming app (via a button on my remote) vs your 16s to get to the same point.
It's the choosing what to play that's the slow bit for me - every app puts what you were last watching in a different place, and not all apps notify Google TV so its own attempt at letting you resume is incomplete...
It also frustrates me that profiles streaming apps don't link to profiles for the OS (e.g. Google TV) - seems obvious to me that by now they should all be seamlessly linked together in a way that delivers the most personalised experience, instead of muddling up everyone's profiles and watch history!