A Knife Forged in Fire(chicagomag.com)
chicagomag.com
A Knife Forged in Fire
https://www.chicagomag.com/chicago-magazine/january-2024/a-knife-forged-in-fire/
124 comments
You can’t just casually mention making your own 15cm solid diamond knife blades, and then not link a picture! Have you checked the edge on your kitchen knife to see if anything’s flakes off it?
I am guessing he meant 15mm, right?
15cm is not a small knife. Infact a 15mm diamond knife is pretty massive. The longest diamond knife I'm finding with some lazy searching is about 4mm, and it's 2200$.
15cm is not a small knife. Infact a 15mm diamond knife is pretty massive. The longest diamond knife I'm finding with some lazy searching is about 4mm, and it's 2200$.
15mm isn't much use as a paring knife, so this sounds more to me like "guy who works in commercial research lab sometimes gets to use the equipment for fun".
Yeah, we REALLY need to see pictures please. I have never heard of a diamond knife before and would love to see what it looks like.
This sounds amazing. But first you say you have been wanting to make diamond blades only to be put off from it by the concern about flaking very sharp micro particles and then proceed that you have made one and cook with it. Aren’t you concerned about the flakes?
Having made diamond cutting tools, Diamond is brittle. It will definitely flake and fracture. It sounds cooler than using cbn though I guess.
In the end if you want something usable you have to match application to material. There is nothing that is good for everything. I would not use diamond for knives except for fun.
In the end if you want something usable you have to match application to material. There is nothing that is good for everything. I would not use diamond for knives except for fun.
I guess if you use it for very specific cuts where there is no bone or anything hard and nothing more, you can keep it cca safe.
To a layman, or expert pro chef layman, good steel is enough, durable, worry free, cheap.
To a layman, or expert pro chef layman, good steel is enough, durable, worry free, cheap.
And coated with Teflon.
Teflon is t the problem. You can eat Teflon.
It’s some of the chemicals formerly used in manufacturing or that it breaks down to when exposed to excess heat that have health effects.
It’s some of the chemicals formerly used in manufacturing or that it breaks down to when exposed to excess heat that have health effects.
Teflon is not very wear resistant itself either. It is very easy to abrade, so seems weird to put it on a knife (the low coefficient of friction is the only thing that protects it)
What’s the brand name or where do you get those wine glasses?
Did you also make those YSZ wine glasses? That sounds neat. I couldn't locate anybody selling them on a quick search.
Woah. Do you have any pictures or videos? I'd love to find out more.
> recent literature searches have put me off a bit, given that brittle ceramic blades like Zirconium oxide shed sharp microparticles that I doubt are good for the ingester
so you fear harmful microparticles, so instead you suggest something normal, like
> steel blade overcoated with a thin Teflon layer
eh?? isn't teflon that scary(tm) substance you must never scratch off your pan or you'll poison yourself?
how's that any better than zirconium?
so you fear harmful microparticles, so instead you suggest something normal, like
> steel blade overcoated with a thin Teflon layer
eh?? isn't teflon that scary(tm) substance you must never scratch off your pan or you'll poison yourself?
how's that any better than zirconium?
I think that's just for comparison, and not an endorsement of its use.
Teflon is biologically inert. It's the stuff they use to make it stick to the knife/pan that you need to worry about.
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Damn it, now I want a diamond knife too.
Great article! I'm a dev turned blacksmith, currently getting back into bladesmithing. Working on my perfect kitchen knife. Here's my first attempt (San mai, mild steel with recycled spring steel edge) : https://www.reddit.com/r/ukblade_blacksmiths/comments/1g5v6s...
Same! (but more side gig for me) It was pandemic hobby. Started out just making a chefy with a custom handle for my wife from a premade blank. Did the next one by hand with a file and a little home made forge, then went all in on a belt grinder, evenheat kiln etc.
The material science side of the blade is a blast - but one of my favorite bits is actually all the variety in handle materials. https://gcarta.bigcartel.com/products has some amazing patterns.
The material science side of the blade is a blast - but one of my favorite bits is actually all the variety in handle materials. https://gcarta.bigcartel.com/products has some amazing patterns.
Awesome! It's much easier to get into than people think. It's well worth learning how to make decent tongs, it's one of my favourite things to make, especially if you learn to punch the holes and rivet by hand.
I'm learning how to use a power hammer in work. It can save a lot of time but I love hand forging.
I haven't done much experimentation with handles. I've been rescuing bits from my firewood for handles so far :-) I also like curving the tang round to make a handle, which people call a "blacksmith knife".
I'm learning how to use a power hammer in work. It can save a lot of time but I love hand forging.
I haven't done much experimentation with handles. I've been rescuing bits from my firewood for handles so far :-) I also like curving the tang round to make a handle, which people call a "blacksmith knife".
Turned blacksmith as in you fully support yourself blacksmithing?
I tried being self employed for 3 years but didn't make enough money to live on. Now I'm full time employed. I don't forge that much, lots more time doing cutting, welding, grinding. I love it.
Same. I tried woodworking for a year. Made 100+ sales on Etsy and made a living but it was barely paycheck to paycheck and went back to full time. It was so much work for so little money but I loved every minute of that year.
Make me a knife!
(Of course I'll pay for it.)
(Of course I'll pay for it.)
Sorry, I've got a long way to go before they're sellable! I'm just setting up a forge at a friend's farm to do more forging at weekends. There are a few people who want to learn and I've got a list of techniques from Forged In Fire that I want to try out.
Oh well. I'll ask again next time you post about it. :)
What a beautiful article; the author weaves together the blacksmith's story with the science of the forge and red-hot metal inside in a way that put me there, as if I was watching Sam turn a deck of metal cards into a knife. The photos that accompany the text are stunning in their own right.
Author Laurence Gonzales writes, "In a sense, the knife marked the birth of civilization", which reminds me of the first knives that the survivors of Verne's "The Mysterious Island" make in their desperation and ingenuity:
Author Laurence Gonzales writes, "In a sense, the knife marked the birth of civilization", which reminds me of the first knives that the survivors of Verne's "The Mysterious Island" make in their desperation and ingenuity:
“Ah, if we only had a knife!” cried the sailor.
“Well?” asked Cyrus Harding.
“Well! I would soon make a bow and arrows, and then there could be plenty of game in the larder!”
“Yes, a knife, a sharp blade.” said the engineer, as if he was speaking to himself.
At this moment his eyes fell upon Top, who was running about on the shore. Suddenly Harding’s face became animated.
“Top, here,” said he.
The dog came at his master’s call. The latter took Top’s head between his hands, and unfastening the collar which the animal wore round his neck, he broke it in two, saying,—
“There are two knives, Pencroft!”
Two hurrahs from the sailor was the reply. Top’s collar was made of a thin piece of tempered steel. They had only to sharpen it on a piece of sandstone, then to raise the edge on a finer stone. Now sandstone was abundant on the beach, and two hours after the stock of tools in the colony consisted of two sharp blades, which were easily fixed in solid handles.
The production of these their first tools was hailed as a triumph. It was indeed a valuable result of their labor, and a very opportune one. They set out.Reminds me of books like Robinson Crusoe and the Swiss Army Robinson, which I read as a kid.
> Swiss Army Robinson
It might as well have been, but I think you meant to say "Family" :-)
It might as well have been, but I think you meant to say "Family" :-)
Yes, probably due to checking out SAK multi-tools recently :-)
My aunt from the US had gifted me a Wenger model SAK when I was a teenager.
My aunt from the US had gifted me a Wenger model SAK when I was a teenager.
I was curious about the "Gator Piss" treatment in the article so I searched for it on a knife forum where someone shared a label:
https://www.knifedogs.com/threads/gator-piss.54340/
"Contains: Iron TriChloride (FeCh), Iron DiChloride (FeCh), Hydrochloric Acid"
Plus a long list of warnings. Apparently it's for etching damascus steel.
"Contains: Iron TriChloride (FeCh), Iron DiChloride (FeCh), Hydrochloric Acid"
Plus a long list of warnings. Apparently it's for etching damascus steel.
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Nakiri profile is such a waste of good steel. It has no point (literally) and it's only going to cut vegetables so it can be almost any steel and serve its purpose. Spending this much effort on a kitchen knife is insane. It's just a utilitarian tool, like a mop.
Just get a boring stamped carbon steel knife and learn how to hone and sharpen (or just pay someone to sharpen it!), and don't leave it sitting in water. I haven't sharpened my knives in 2 years, they are all <$80 and sharper than most people's. Life doesn't have to be complicated.
My kitchen knife layout (on a magnet bar on the fridge):
Just get a boring stamped carbon steel knife and learn how to hone and sharpen (or just pay someone to sharpen it!), and don't leave it sitting in water. I haven't sharpened my knives in 2 years, they are all <$80 and sharper than most people's. Life doesn't have to be complicated.
My kitchen knife layout (on a magnet bar on the fridge):
3x 3.75" stainless paring knife (precision by goodcook)
1x 5.25" stainless paring knife (precision by goodcook)
1x 6" victorinox
1x 7" random japanese high carbon knife
1x 8" zwilling chefs knife
Nakiri most definitely cannot use any steel.
Using a very sharp nakiri made of a very hard steel is incomparably more enjoyable than using one made of ordinary steel, due to the reduced force required for slicing, and it avoids the need for frequent sharpening.
As long as it is used for its only intended function, i.e. cutting/slicing/chopping vegetables, nakiri has the optimum shape, at least for people like myself, who do not like the rocking motion required with French-style chef knives, but who prefer to slice or chop with precise rectilinear motions.
For some things that might require the use of the point with European knives, like removing some defect in a vegetable, the heel of a nakiri blade is actually more convenient.
Of course the nakiri shape is not versatile. If you want a multi-purpose blade, I prefer the kiritsuke shape (i.e. a trapezoidal blade, not much different from a box cutter with a longer point), because that kind of point allows a maximum precision in cuts.
Using a Japanese peeling/paring knife with very thin, sharp and hard blade is much more enjoyable than using an ordinary paring knife made of stainless steel, due to much less effort for using it and more precise results (i.e. lower vegetable waste).
A long time ago, I had been using knives like those described by you, but replacing them with up to 3 better knives (paring/peeling, cutting/slicing/chopping and boning) has completely changed cooking from something that was more of a chore to an enjoyable activity.
Using a very sharp nakiri made of a very hard steel is incomparably more enjoyable than using one made of ordinary steel, due to the reduced force required for slicing, and it avoids the need for frequent sharpening.
As long as it is used for its only intended function, i.e. cutting/slicing/chopping vegetables, nakiri has the optimum shape, at least for people like myself, who do not like the rocking motion required with French-style chef knives, but who prefer to slice or chop with precise rectilinear motions.
For some things that might require the use of the point with European knives, like removing some defect in a vegetable, the heel of a nakiri blade is actually more convenient.
Of course the nakiri shape is not versatile. If you want a multi-purpose blade, I prefer the kiritsuke shape (i.e. a trapezoidal blade, not much different from a box cutter with a longer point), because that kind of point allows a maximum precision in cuts.
Using a Japanese peeling/paring knife with very thin, sharp and hard blade is much more enjoyable than using an ordinary paring knife made of stainless steel, due to much less effort for using it and more precise results (i.e. lower vegetable waste).
A long time ago, I had been using knives like those described by you, but replacing them with up to 3 better knives (paring/peeling, cutting/slicing/chopping and boning) has completely changed cooking from something that was more of a chore to an enjoyable activity.
~ omg, thank you for quantifying this for me, I hate what you describe as rocking motion slicing.
That's one viewpoint, the utilitarian one. But a lot of people simply like to use things that are beautiful - take, for example, new cars (over old beaters) or gentleman's watches (over your phone's clock). And something that is hand-crafted might give somebody enjoyment just for this very fact, not because the end product is necessarily superior to a factory-made alternative.
I read this with an echo of the Douglas Adams passage about the Sandwich Maker in Mostly Harmless.
> many was the evening when the Sandwich Maker and the Tool Maker could be seen silhouetted against the light of the setting sun and the Tool Maker's forge making slow sweeping movements through the air, trying one knife after another, comparing the weight of this one with the balance of another, the suppleness of a third and the handle binding of a fourth
> many was the evening when the Sandwich Maker and the Tool Maker could be seen silhouetted against the light of the setting sun and the Tool Maker's forge making slow sweeping movements through the air, trying one knife after another, comparing the weight of this one with the balance of another, the suppleness of a third and the handle binding of a fourth
It's a bit of a nitpick, but I hate the term "Damascus steel" used in this context. This is pattern-welded steel, which was first called Damascus by Bill Moran in 1973. It offers few (if any) benefits that a solid billet of a single high-quality steel wouldn't, and it offers none that the original Damascus was said to have.
Damascus steel was originally a crucible wootz steel that came from India or Iran and was sold to Europe through Damascus. The alternating colors came from the grain structure of the steel, not from different steel types layered together. As far as I am aware, we still do not know the exact process used to create it, although we have come close, and it's likely that modern CPM (Crucible Particulate Metallurgy) steels surpass it due to more consistent measurements for the components of the alloy.
I am only an amateur blacksmith, but I have spent the last 15 years dreaming and researching to prepare myself. Given that I live in an apartment, I am limited to a small mobile forge that I can wheel out to the complex's grill area where I am actually allowed to have a fire, which limits the projects I can do due to the forge size and temperature. Crucible steel is a dream one day, but for now I just nitpick and try to tell people about the original Damascus, which is (in my opinion) much more fascinating than what gets the label today.
Damascus steel was originally a crucible wootz steel that came from India or Iran and was sold to Europe through Damascus. The alternating colors came from the grain structure of the steel, not from different steel types layered together. As far as I am aware, we still do not know the exact process used to create it, although we have come close, and it's likely that modern CPM (Crucible Particulate Metallurgy) steels surpass it due to more consistent measurements for the components of the alloy.
I am only an amateur blacksmith, but I have spent the last 15 years dreaming and researching to prepare myself. Given that I live in an apartment, I am limited to a small mobile forge that I can wheel out to the complex's grill area where I am actually allowed to have a fire, which limits the projects I can do due to the forge size and temperature. Crucible steel is a dream one day, but for now I just nitpick and try to tell people about the original Damascus, which is (in my opinion) much more fascinating than what gets the label today.
One of my own pet peeves in Forged In Fire was that every contestant would submit Damascus (-style) blades for their final showdowns. It just wasn’t necessary and often just looked trashy.
As a secondary nitpick, the term is perfectly acceptable for the process commonly used today. As you’ve already mentioned - the original process has been lost to time, so no one actually makes it.
As a secondary nitpick, the term is perfectly acceptable for the process commonly used today. As you’ve already mentioned - the original process has been lost to time, so no one actually makes it.
> One of my own pet peeves in Forged In Fire was that every contestant would submit Damascus (-style) blades for their final showdowns. It just wasn’t necessary and often just looked trashy.
Agreed. There was a much smaller emphasis on Damascus steel in early seasons. If you go back and rewatch you can see the frequency pick up as they praised and required Damascus more and more.
Agreed. There was a much smaller emphasis on Damascus steel in early seasons. If you go back and rewatch you can see the frequency pick up as they praised and required Damascus more and more.
I think part of the reason is just the visual factor- TV screens don't do a particularly good job of showing off solid colored blades compared to how they look in person.
On top of that, I believe it is easier to run into problems with delamination, or that a small flaw can more easily be a larger problem.
If anything, it seems like an added challenge to demonstrate that you can do it, as a way to distinguish the blade in the final judging if it performed similarly to the others.
Ultimately, though, it's still just showmanship and not an actual indication of the quality of the blade itself. It's a TV show, after all.
On top of that, I believe it is easier to run into problems with delamination, or that a small flaw can more easily be a larger problem.
If anything, it seems like an added challenge to demonstrate that you can do it, as a way to distinguish the blade in the final judging if it performed similarly to the others.
Ultimately, though, it's still just showmanship and not an actual indication of the quality of the blade itself. It's a TV show, after all.
How did you get into amateur blacksmithing? How much did it cost you to get started? Who do you make tools for?
Pardon all the questions but it’s a topic I’ve been curious about.
Pardon all the questions but it’s a topic I’ve been curious about.
I took a class hosted by a group affiliated with my local renfest, which kind of kickstarted me to actually follow up on all the research I did. Having experienced instructors helped with the beginning learning curve, plus they pointed out early pitfalls to avoid (like gripping the hammer too tight). While useful, you definitely don't need to take a class to get started. There's dozens of tutorials on making a basic forge on Youtube - either coal-burning or propane - and you can get started with something as basic as a sledgehammer head for your anvil. Even a Harbor Freight cast iron anvil is enough for a beginner, although they're more likely to crack.
My starting costs were reduced by gifts, and my dad giving me an anvil he made with a piece of railroad several years ago. A basic gas forge from Vevor is around $75, but you can make your own small one from a coffee can, some refractory wool, and a handheld propane torch.
Right now, I just make tools and trinkets for myself. I'm _very_ amateur at the moment, I have more theoretical knowledge than practical experience. Once I get comfortable, I'll make more trinkets and tools for friends and family, then maybe one day make things to sell.
My starting costs were reduced by gifts, and my dad giving me an anvil he made with a piece of railroad several years ago. A basic gas forge from Vevor is around $75, but you can make your own small one from a coffee can, some refractory wool, and a handheld propane torch.
Right now, I just make tools and trinkets for myself. I'm _very_ amateur at the moment, I have more theoretical knowledge than practical experience. Once I get comfortable, I'll make more trinkets and tools for friends and family, then maybe one day make things to sell.
You’ll probably find that there is a forge near where you live that does one- or two-day courses on blade smithing. It’s a pretty good birthday gift.
Watch any episode of Forged In Fire to get a feel for what’s involved from a hobbyists perspective. The second half of each episode follows the finalists’ progress on the challenge in their own workshops - some have full-blown black smithing businesses, but others are (literally) backyard operations.
Watch any episode of Forged In Fire to get a feel for what’s involved from a hobbyists perspective. The second half of each episode follows the finalists’ progress on the challenge in their own workshops - some have full-blown black smithing businesses, but others are (literally) backyard operations.
Amazing tips, thank you!
I get the nostalgia, but it’s worth noting that modern metallurgy has far surpassed classic knife-making techniques. Industrially-made knives are stronger and hold an edge much better.
Indeed! I recently discovered how sharp and good Victorinox blades are. Even their cheap 10 euros blades are unbelievably sharp. To the point where you have to handle them with additional care compared to other knives. The nonchalant way I was handling the Ikea-type cooking knives got me a few deep cuts.
The issue with cheap knives isn't how sharp you can get them — you can _anything_ razor sharp relatively easily.
Making a knife that _keeps_ sharp; and that will not chip/shatter/handle won't disintegrate is the difficult part.
(You can also argue about blade geometries, how thin the blade is etc for hours; but "can this be made sharp" is not a problem with cheap/bad knives, generally.)
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My (very limited!) understanding of knife steels is that "powdered steels" are not what you'll find in a random big box store; but rather more expensive, "fancy" lines.
You don't have to spend $450 on hand-forged, artisanal blade from Japan, but a $50 buck no-name is not going to be Buy-It-For-Life powdered steel knife either.
Making a knife that _keeps_ sharp; and that will not chip/shatter/handle won't disintegrate is the difficult part.
(You can also argue about blade geometries, how thin the blade is etc for hours; but "can this be made sharp" is not a problem with cheap/bad knives, generally.)
---
My (very limited!) understanding of knife steels is that "powdered steels" are not what you'll find in a random big box store; but rather more expensive, "fancy" lines.
You don't have to spend $450 on hand-forged, artisanal blade from Japan, but a $50 buck no-name is not going to be Buy-It-For-Life powdered steel knife either.
With a no-name, for sure. And maybe you see the difference after a long time? But after a year of unfettered abuse, my $50 Victorinox kitchen knife is still as dangerously sharp as new, and I have only sharpened it a couple of times.
Same with 'Frosts of Mora' from Sweden. Cheap, and incredibly sharp when new. 100 of those, or a hipster damascas blade???
I remember seeing some local (Australian) "celebrity chef" explain how he never sharpened his cleavers. He'd buy $8 cleavers of a specific brand that're widely available in Asian grocers here, and replace them when they lost enough of their edge to be noticeable. I now buy em 3 at a time, and while I don't use a cleaver that often, $25 worth of cleavers last me easily a couple of years.
I have tried sharpening them, I have a Lansky knife sharpening kit/jig that I use for my other knives, and it works fine at least for the first or second time, but spending ~20 mins on an $8 knife instead of getting the spare out isn't something i choose to do.
(And now I've typed that out, I feel somewhat guilty and wasteful about it...)
I have tried sharpening them, I have a Lansky knife sharpening kit/jig that I use for my other knives, and it works fine at least for the first or second time, but spending ~20 mins on an $8 knife instead of getting the spare out isn't something i choose to do.
(And now I've typed that out, I feel somewhat guilty and wasteful about it...)
It's not wasteful if you're giving them to your local Goodwill, or listing them free on Craigslist or something.
It's only wasteful if you're throwing them in your trashcan.
It's only wasteful if you're throwing them in your trashcan.
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It really depends. A cheap knife from ikea will not. But a powdered steel knife which is itself a luxury will definitely hold its edge better than carbon steel.
> A cheap knife from ikea will not.
IKEA BRILJERA knives are the mid-range not cheapest ones. But they are not expensive.
But they are made from (The Chinese version of) VG10 steel, which will hold an edge very well, and is still stainless.
IKEA BRILJERA knives are the mid-range not cheapest ones. But they are not expensive.
But they are made from (The Chinese version of) VG10 steel, which will hold an edge very well, and is still stainless.
There is also a tradeoff between ductility and hardness where going too far in the hardness direction results in a knife that chips easily and is really hard to sharpen. Softer German style steels are in a sweet spot for me in that regard, even though they require more frequent sharpening.
The very purpose of the powdered steel mentioned by the previous poster is to improve this tradeoff between ductility and hardness.
The simplest carbon steels can be made very hard with an appropriate heat treatment, if they have high carbon content, but then, as you say, they chip too easily.
The various kinds of alloyed steels that can be used instead of carbon steel attempt to improve the tradeoff between ductility and hardness, so that one may choose a heat treatment that results in greater hardness without making the blade as fragile as a blade made of carbon steel with the same hardness.
The alloyed steels made using powder metallurgy are said to achieve the best tradeoff between hardness and ductility, but I have not tested this yet, because they are also the most expensive.
In the past I have used softer German style steels, but I do not like having to sharpen them, so now I prefer to use only harder and sharper Japanese knives, which must be sharpened much less frequently.
The simplest carbon steels can be made very hard with an appropriate heat treatment, if they have high carbon content, but then, as you say, they chip too easily.
The various kinds of alloyed steels that can be used instead of carbon steel attempt to improve the tradeoff between ductility and hardness, so that one may choose a heat treatment that results in greater hardness without making the blade as fragile as a blade made of carbon steel with the same hardness.
The alloyed steels made using powder metallurgy are said to achieve the best tradeoff between hardness and ductility, but I have not tested this yet, because they are also the most expensive.
In the past I have used softer German style steels, but I do not like having to sharpen them, so now I prefer to use only harder and sharper Japanese knives, which must be sharpened much less frequently.
I've got a Japanese stainless steel Damascus kitchen knife. Sharp as hell. But you need to change your cutting technique because the edge is more brittle than the mushy steel knives we all know. That's not to say that mushy steel knives don't have a place in the kitchen. Always use the right tool for the job.
Do you have a sharpening system you recommend?
On the cheaper side, Lansky makes a good jig and set of stones that's good for setting angles, and getting razor edges if you already have the angle set. [1] Worksharp makes a similar kit that's more stationary, with several versions at different costs [2]
For a little more, and a little more freehand style, you can try Spyderco's Sharpmaker [3]. My dad has one of these, and growing up he would sharpen kitchen and pocket knives to a razor edge very quickly with it.
I personally freehand sharpen my knives using Shapton stones [4]. I have the Kurumaku at 320, 1000, 2000, 5000, and 8000 grits, although the higher grits don't get used often; usually the 1000 grit alone is enough for getting a razor edge fairly quickly. I got mine from Amazon, but you can find them various places for $30-50 each.
[1] https://www.lansky.com/deluxe-5-stone-system.html [2] https://www.worksharptools.com/products/precision-adjust-kni... [3] https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77 [4] https://shapton.co.jp/en/#products
For a little more, and a little more freehand style, you can try Spyderco's Sharpmaker [3]. My dad has one of these, and growing up he would sharpen kitchen and pocket knives to a razor edge very quickly with it.
I personally freehand sharpen my knives using Shapton stones [4]. I have the Kurumaku at 320, 1000, 2000, 5000, and 8000 grits, although the higher grits don't get used often; usually the 1000 grit alone is enough for getting a razor edge fairly quickly. I got mine from Amazon, but you can find them various places for $30-50 each.
[1] https://www.lansky.com/deluxe-5-stone-system.html [2] https://www.worksharptools.com/products/precision-adjust-kni... [3] https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77 [4] https://shapton.co.jp/en/#products
If you're just doing normal stuff in the kitchen, the cheapest 400-grit diamond stone/plate bigger than a few inches you can find on Amazon is good enough.
Once you can get a knife sharp with that it'll only take seconds to get it ready for normal use. The next step would probably be some kind of a strop/compound for removing the bur and polishing the edge. Doing so will improve edge retention substantially.
After that, it's like anything; you can get as far as you'd like into the hobby; but you'll already be able to slice off translucent tomato windows without squishing anything, so it starts mattering less for normal use, especially with the battering a knife can take in the kitchen.
Once you can get a knife sharp with that it'll only take seconds to get it ready for normal use. The next step would probably be some kind of a strop/compound for removing the bur and polishing the edge. Doing so will improve edge retention substantially.
After that, it's like anything; you can get as far as you'd like into the hobby; but you'll already be able to slice off translucent tomato windows without squishing anything, so it starts mattering less for normal use, especially with the battering a knife can take in the kitchen.
Depends on level of commitment and results you need.
To do it once and for all buy belt sharpener - Work Sharp with Blade Grinder Attachment being probably the best price vs quality vs functionality.
For quality sharpening that requires a bit of time buy rolling knife sharpener.
For quality sharpening which is fast and anyone can do buy electrical ChefMate with two slots and follow the instructions.
PS Do not bother with anything that requires clamping the knife, etc. You’ll use it once - it’s just too much hustle to setup and adjust these systems. You spend most of the time unpacking, bolting it together and then readjusting the knife instead of sharpening.
This is why rolling sharpeners work really well - fast magnetic attachment, angles are pre-set.
To do it once and for all buy belt sharpener - Work Sharp with Blade Grinder Attachment being probably the best price vs quality vs functionality.
For quality sharpening that requires a bit of time buy rolling knife sharpener.
For quality sharpening which is fast and anyone can do buy electrical ChefMate with two slots and follow the instructions.
PS Do not bother with anything that requires clamping the knife, etc. You’ll use it once - it’s just too much hustle to setup and adjust these systems. You spend most of the time unpacking, bolting it together and then readjusting the knife instead of sharpening.
This is why rolling sharpeners work really well - fast magnetic attachment, angles are pre-set.
Unfortunately nothing fancy, I have been doing it manually on a large (10") two-sided sharpening stone. More gear-oriented friends swear by products such as e.g. what's available here https://wickededgeusa.com/
The bottom of a ceramic mug works wonders.
Honestly — if you live in a big enough city where that's an option?
Have a big enough collection of knives that you can take two out at a time, and bring them to a local, reputable sharpener (most shops that sell fancy/expensive/actual chef's knives will do this.).
If you want to get into sharpening as a hobby, then getting a couple of whetstones is probably the easiest recommendation; but I just never got good enough at it and the process never got fun.
I get the feeling that it becomes another aspect of a hobby for some; but I already make espresso at home, I have enough fiddly and frustrating kitchen hobbies.
Have a big enough collection of knives that you can take two out at a time, and bring them to a local, reputable sharpener (most shops that sell fancy/expensive/actual chef's knives will do this.).
If you want to get into sharpening as a hobby, then getting a couple of whetstones is probably the easiest recommendation; but I just never got good enough at it and the process never got fun.
I get the feeling that it becomes another aspect of a hobby for some; but I already make espresso at home, I have enough fiddly and frustrating kitchen hobbies.
I was disappointed to find I had chipped my expensive Global chefs knife without having tried anything out of the ordinary like bones or nuts (side note, ceramic knives are not the tool for slicing pecans!)
Laminate welding is easy.
Keep everything clean, wire brush,
use flux, certain types of sand, borax or store bought
never push past a welding heat.....either way.
Oh and even if the boss says you can use anything
you find out back, he does not actualy mean anything, a horse shoe, fine, AND the coil spring for his car,not so much.
Just came across that knife the other day.
Made a bit of chain on the anvil
I mostly fire weld for the look, as the tapers are
impossible to get any other way.
If you want a related subject, then fire brazing ox bells has as much lore and mystery as knives, way, way more skill required, but again
uses the simplest of materials.
I want a nakiri too and have been eyeing this one. No Damascus but the Spanish point is interesting.
https://www.messermeister.com/products/oliva-elite-6-5-inch-...
https://www.messermeister.com/products/oliva-elite-6-5-inch-...
One can say a video version of the article - similar process of making a Damascus sword
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53_cuLhObr8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53_cuLhObr8
"Sam is harnessing powers that few of us ever encounter in our lives. He’s directing them in order to reach down inside of this deck of tarot cards and transform the very atomic nature of its being. He’s doing what sorcerers do: magic."
This is how I feel when I practiced welding. It really is truly sorcery. All the fantasies and stories of olde, with wizards wielding wands that spout lightning. This is it! We can actually do it! But I'm not very good at it :)
This is how I feel when I practiced welding. It really is truly sorcery. All the fantasies and stories of olde, with wizards wielding wands that spout lightning. This is it! We can actually do it! But I'm not very good at it :)
That is some fine writing.
I guess this is subjective. But to me, there's a distracting amount of purple prose.
Prose has a function, which is to tap into metaphor in order to help words describe a sensory experience that's otherwise difficult for words to capture.
The article does have that kind of prose. But it also has plenty of prose for prose's sake. Prose for prose's sake – especially in journalism – is self-serving. It obfuscates the point, for the sake of prose (and ultimately, for the author's own satisfaction with himself).
Edit: that being said, I liked the article overall and I think the author did great at choosing an interesting subject and pretty well at writing about it. I certainly couldn't do better.
Prose has a function, which is to tap into metaphor in order to help words describe a sensory experience that's otherwise difficult for words to capture.
The article does have that kind of prose. But it also has plenty of prose for prose's sake. Prose for prose's sake – especially in journalism – is self-serving. It obfuscates the point, for the sake of prose (and ultimately, for the author's own satisfaction with himself).
Edit: that being said, I liked the article overall and I think the author did great at choosing an interesting subject and pretty well at writing about it. I certainly couldn't do better.
I'm going to provide some examples of what I'm criticizing here – it will likely double my downvotes, but I want to be specific as long as I'm dissenting. This is just honest and well-meaning criticism, and I'd appreciate similar criticism about my own writing. I originally replied to a comment that said simply "that is some fine writing" and I don't necessarily agree. There majority of it is well-done, but to me, the early prose made it difficult to read further.
> some of the things in this sprawling realm of clutter might have come from another galaxy, like the ballistic cartridge for the table saw. If you accidentally touch the blade, it senses electrical conductivity and retracts. It’s gone so fast that it can’t cut you. It’s all part of the magic of this place of transformations.
This is just a SawStop, but the author describes it as evidence of the otherworldliness of the subject. Why? There's a bill to make this mandatory in table saws. It's not otherworldly.
> The room lit up to an intensity such that Sam was cast as a silhouetted troupe of antic spiders dancing on the walls and floor and ceiling, sparks flying around him like a cracked nest of hornets and in his hands a burning blue hole at the center of things.
The author is describing aspects of welding with mixed arthropod metaphors. To me, it comes off as pretentious more than descriptive.
On the other hand, I like how this paragraph starts out:
> Sam is afraid of some of his machines in the way that the lion tamer is afraid of his cats. You are confident. You know your skills. You have been doing this a long time. But you know that wild animals are always wild animals, and a false gesture, perhaps an unexpected noise, could set in motion events that could not be stopped.
This metaphor is effective to me and is descriptive in the way the author intends. Maybe gets unnecessary towards the end. But right afterwards:
> Sam is harnessing powers that few of us ever encounter in our lives. He’s directing them in order to reach down inside of this deck of tarot cards and transform the very atomic nature of its being. He’s doing what sorcerers do: magic.
What? This isn't even referring to a particular skill or act. Just the use of shop machines. I don't doubt that Sam is exceptionally skilled, but using "magic" to "transform the very atomic nature" of the metal – especially when we're not talking about a particular act which sets him apart – is a strain for my imagination.
In my opinion, in a journalistic writing, this kind of fluff distracts from the subject and makes it difficult to read and/or take seriously. That's just my opinion – but I was replying to an opinion that it's "fine writing." If there's room for one, there's room for the other.
> some of the things in this sprawling realm of clutter might have come from another galaxy, like the ballistic cartridge for the table saw. If you accidentally touch the blade, it senses electrical conductivity and retracts. It’s gone so fast that it can’t cut you. It’s all part of the magic of this place of transformations.
This is just a SawStop, but the author describes it as evidence of the otherworldliness of the subject. Why? There's a bill to make this mandatory in table saws. It's not otherworldly.
> The room lit up to an intensity such that Sam was cast as a silhouetted troupe of antic spiders dancing on the walls and floor and ceiling, sparks flying around him like a cracked nest of hornets and in his hands a burning blue hole at the center of things.
The author is describing aspects of welding with mixed arthropod metaphors. To me, it comes off as pretentious more than descriptive.
On the other hand, I like how this paragraph starts out:
> Sam is afraid of some of his machines in the way that the lion tamer is afraid of his cats. You are confident. You know your skills. You have been doing this a long time. But you know that wild animals are always wild animals, and a false gesture, perhaps an unexpected noise, could set in motion events that could not be stopped.
This metaphor is effective to me and is descriptive in the way the author intends. Maybe gets unnecessary towards the end. But right afterwards:
> Sam is harnessing powers that few of us ever encounter in our lives. He’s directing them in order to reach down inside of this deck of tarot cards and transform the very atomic nature of its being. He’s doing what sorcerers do: magic.
What? This isn't even referring to a particular skill or act. Just the use of shop machines. I don't doubt that Sam is exceptionally skilled, but using "magic" to "transform the very atomic nature" of the metal – especially when we're not talking about a particular act which sets him apart – is a strain for my imagination.
In my opinion, in a journalistic writing, this kind of fluff distracts from the subject and makes it difficult to read and/or take seriously. That's just my opinion – but I was replying to an opinion that it's "fine writing." If there's room for one, there's room for the other.
> I guess this is subjective. But to me, there's a distracting amount of purple prose.
Yes, there is. Most of what he's describing is ordinary metalworking. He gets rather worked up about a belt sander. Which is strange, because the author has written several good books about survival and air crashes and has spoken at Los Alamos.[1] He can't be that naive about basic industrial technology.
Or maybe he can be. It's possible, in America today, to grow up without ever using a tool more complex than a screwdriver. This is a problem.
[1] http://www.laurencegonzales.com/bio.html
Yes, there is. Most of what he's describing is ordinary metalworking. He gets rather worked up about a belt sander. Which is strange, because the author has written several good books about survival and air crashes and has spoken at Los Alamos.[1] He can't be that naive about basic industrial technology.
Or maybe he can be. It's possible, in America today, to grow up without ever using a tool more complex than a screwdriver. This is a problem.
[1] http://www.laurencegonzales.com/bio.html
If I'm reading it correctly, the knifemaker is the brother of the author's son-in-law. So this is kind of a family thing taking place in public; one family member creates a work of art that is excessive for its intended use, and the other family member responds with a work of art that is excessive for its intended use.
In both cases, the person is doing it because they can, not because they should. I'm not bothered at all; if this was supposed to be a news story it may be a different case.
In both cases, the person is doing it because they can, not because they should. I'm not bothered at all; if this was supposed to be a news story it may be a different case.
Great critique, thanks for sharing. These are good examples of supporting and detracting from the subject of the writing.
Right there with you, and I’m surprised I had to read this far down the thread to find somebody pointing it out. My high school English teacher, who was of the old school, would have written in the margin, “elves of fire? Give me a break!”
This reminds me of that almost-philosophical discussion about the two types of consumers: the ones who carefully research, and then buy, the very nicest forks and spoons available to buy on the global spoon market, vs. those who agglomerate "whatever" in their flatware drawer, and never think about it.
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=4755470 ("The Best (dcurt.is)", 298 comments)
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=4755470 ("The Best (dcurt.is)", 298 comments)
There is some research suggesting that maximizers, people who insist on only the best, are less happy than satisficers, people who stop when they've found something that's good enough.[1] Perhaps it has something to do with how maximizers, due to their exhaustive research, know all the shortcomings of the thing they eventually choose. Anyway, this research is pre-replication crisis, so who knows if it has stood up, but I've found maximizer/satisficer to be a useful distinction.
1: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satisficing#In_personality_and...
1: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satisficing#In_personality_and...
I've found that to be a liberating philosophy. But I also have a few areas where I'm quite the opposite: but I'm very deliberate in which things I choose to obsess over. I try to remind myself to be conscious of the diminishing returns there too - and try not to go _full audiophile_.
I hear you... through the daisy-chained coat hangers I wired up my speakers with.
On the other hand, sometimes doing said research is half the fun.
I'm a fan of Moxie Marlinspike's response to that post, "The Worst"[0].
[0] https://moxie.org/2012/11/27/the-worst.html
[0] https://moxie.org/2012/11/27/the-worst.html
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=4838109 ("The Worst (thoughtcrime.org)", 209 comments)
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31402797 ("The Worst (moxie.org)", 65 comments)
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31402797 ("The Worst (moxie.org)", 65 comments)
Well, middle way, I guess. Or "We're not rich enough to buy crappy things", as the saying goes.
is Moxie actually sailing derelict sailboats "as far as he can take them"? While I'm admiring this, I'm also worried he's going to be marooned somewhere...
It's not so bad if he stays in sight of the main coast.
Northern Australia has a culture of running old cars and boats into the ground, kicking them over and making them go again, walking home if all fails.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rXVD-qU_VM
Northern Australia has a culture of running old cars and boats into the ground, kicking them over and making them go again, walking home if all fails.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rXVD-qU_VM
I don’t even know how realistically it’s even possible to have something of one kind in a functioning family kitchen: over the years you’ll have to replace or supplement the items, and most brands don’t manufacture same kinds of plates or utensils continuously!
For silverware we don’t even try - random sets from IKEA and restaurant stores combined. For plates we use Macy’s colorful plates - which they seemed to sell forever, and they changed the design slightly few years ago, so now they don’t match anymore!
For silverware we don’t even try - random sets from IKEA and restaurant stores combined. For plates we use Macy’s colorful plates - which they seemed to sell forever, and they changed the design slightly few years ago, so now they don’t match anymore!
Most homes of people who are reasonably well-off - including most people on HN - go through three distinct stages.
The first stage is right after you spend an insane amount of money to buy the property. At that point, you want to validate the investment, so you spend more on making it look nice, but you're probably oblivious to many realities of homeownership. So yeah, this is when people splurge on matched kitchenware, beautiful cutting boards, "smart" kitchen appliances, sleek-looking but impractical veneer / plastic / glass furniture, etc.
The second stage is when you get kids or pets, and you start losing the battle. You eventually throw in the towel, accepting that there are going to be dings on the walls and on stainless steel appliances, holes in window screens, and veneer peeling off after the fifth juice spill accident.
The third stage is when the kids move out and you can actually make the space look nice. Except now, you know that there's some wisdom to old-fashioned solid wood furniture, that cutting boards are for cutting, and so on. So your home acquires more of an "old people" vibe.
The first stage is right after you spend an insane amount of money to buy the property. At that point, you want to validate the investment, so you spend more on making it look nice, but you're probably oblivious to many realities of homeownership. So yeah, this is when people splurge on matched kitchenware, beautiful cutting boards, "smart" kitchen appliances, sleek-looking but impractical veneer / plastic / glass furniture, etc.
The second stage is when you get kids or pets, and you start losing the battle. You eventually throw in the towel, accepting that there are going to be dings on the walls and on stainless steel appliances, holes in window screens, and veneer peeling off after the fifth juice spill accident.
The third stage is when the kids move out and you can actually make the space look nice. Except now, you know that there's some wisdom to old-fashioned solid wood furniture, that cutting boards are for cutting, and so on. So your home acquires more of an "old people" vibe.
Ha! Stainless steel appliances. The new (Bosch) dishwasher gets nasty crap spilled down the front. No problem, it's stainless steel so get out the scrubby sponge. Ha. The stainless steel has a relatively delicate clearcoat on top of it which is now messed up. Stainless steel for show only, not for actual utility.
Isn't it the opposite? Stainless steal is for utility, not show. Hence why it's used in all professional kitchens I've worked.
Isn't the problem that you got out the scrubby sponge?
According to the manual (which I didn't read) of course it is. But something delicate masquerading as brushed stainless steel...
I have 3 stages of flatware right now:
1. Relatively nice stuff I bought for myself when I moved into my apartment
2. Cheap stuff I bought after a friend used a yellow-green scrub sponge and scratched up all my nice stuff
3. Nice stuff I bought for myself after the divorce (Except that it's poorly designed, which makes me wish I'd bought something a little more standard. They all have round handles, which means the utensils try to spin in your hands.)
1. Relatively nice stuff I bought for myself when I moved into my apartment
2. Cheap stuff I bought after a friend used a yellow-green scrub sponge and scratched up all my nice stuff
3. Nice stuff I bought for myself after the divorce (Except that it's poorly designed, which makes me wish I'd bought something a little more standard. They all have round handles, which means the utensils try to spin in your hands.)
I can in no way shape or form stand "impostor utensils." I throw them away ruthlessly (we sometimes acquire them when guests bring over food or by accident from vacations). When we run low I throw away the whole lot and replace it. Same with plates, glasses, or socks. Seriously, who has time to match up socks? Just buy 40 identical pairs and throw away the rest.
This is exactly what I do with socks, and then I replace the whole set.
But then it runs into (un)surprising problem: most brands don’t maintain their designs, so if you find something you like, it’s not going to be available when it’s time to replace entire set couple years later.
In the end I standardized on Blacksocks, which seem to have same design forever, although they are more expensive than I would like.
But then it runs into (un)surprising problem: most brands don’t maintain their designs, so if you find something you like, it’s not going to be available when it’s time to replace entire set couple years later.
In the end I standardized on Blacksocks, which seem to have same design forever, although they are more expensive than I would like.
The way to avoid this is to do a tiny bit of research and find a product line that is unlikely to change over time. Fiestaware for example is basically unchanged in look and feel and inexpensive so you can just buy their stuff and replace your broken plates without introducing a mismatched item.
Airstream is an amazing example of this in a premium product: their trailers get new features but built around existing designs. Parts from different decades just fit together. I wish cars worked like this.
Furniture is tougher as both styles change and there isn’t a lot of manufacturers that make the same thing over and over.
My personal favorite: socks. I standardized on exactly one style of socks that work for me for everything from fitness to everyday wear. I have two dozen of them, replace the oldest with a new six pack every year. I spend no time matching socks. Yes I have one pair of dress socks for when I wear a tux + two pairs of thick wool socks for when I am doing winter things. Outside of that it’s the same Under Armor Resistors every day.
Airstream is an amazing example of this in a premium product: their trailers get new features but built around existing designs. Parts from different decades just fit together. I wish cars worked like this.
Furniture is tougher as both styles change and there isn’t a lot of manufacturers that make the same thing over and over.
My personal favorite: socks. I standardized on exactly one style of socks that work for me for everything from fitness to everyday wear. I have two dozen of them, replace the oldest with a new six pack every year. I spend no time matching socks. Yes I have one pair of dress socks for when I wear a tux + two pairs of thick wool socks for when I am doing winter things. Outside of that it’s the same Under Armor Resistors every day.
Fiestaware from Macy’s is exactly what I’m referring to in the original post - they changed the design slightly on all items few years ago and now plates don’t match! We still use them, of course, but it’s funny that this was the core proposition why we used this brand and they compromised it.
Ah that’s disappointing. The other way to go: get into pottery and make it all yourself!
You could buy a restaurant quality set of vitrified plates. They survive being dropped. They also weigh a ton.
I got mine second hand
I got mine second hand
If you buy IKEA then you can’t. But if you buy from independent specialists then you’ll often find their ranges will be available for decades.
But then you’re paying a minimum £120 for a set of cutlery rather than £12.
However the way I look at it is that good cutlery lasts a lifetime.
But then you’re paying a minimum £120 for a set of cutlery rather than £12.
However the way I look at it is that good cutlery lasts a lifetime.
But they don’t - they get lost. Our original sets are diminished. So I see it as expenditure, and buy inexpensive steel quality sets not worrying about them being matched. It’s insane to pay 120 pounds for a set. Are these items to be used or to worry about them?
Why would you worry about a solid lump of metal?
I’m also a little confused how lose so much cutlery. I have a family too and I’ve never lost any. But Maybe it’s a bigger problem with teenagers and thus my kids are still a couple of years too young?
I’m also a little confused how lose so much cutlery. I have a family too and I’ve never lost any. But Maybe it’s a bigger problem with teenagers and thus my kids are still a couple of years too young?
- "good cutlery lasts a lifetime"
I mean, modern ones are just solid chunks of Type 304 stainless steel; unless you are a family of Ridley Scott xenomorphs I can't imagine why they wouldn't.
I mean, modern ones are just solid chunks of Type 304 stainless steel; unless you are a family of Ridley Scott xenomorphs I can't imagine why they wouldn't.
I hosted a party one time at an Airbnb I was staying at. A friend invited his buddy who said he’d come and prepare something. His buddy brought a can that needed opening and when he found a can opener lacking, he took the rental provided chef’s knife and stabbed it into the can to cut through the top.
The knife did survive, but I spent a good amount of time bending the tip back to be mostly straight. I’m sure you could destroy a knife by repeating such a practice.
The knife did survive, but I spent a good amount of time bending the tip back to be mostly straight. I’m sure you could destroy a knife by repeating such a practice.
This is why every travel kit should include a Victorinox with a can opener. This savagery must be avoided.
It’s Airbnb, you are going to be charged a bunch of nickel-and-dime fees anyway. Might as well enjoy the expendable nature of everything, I guess.
That’s my point.
Cheap cutlery can often be thin or made from cheaper steal that is more prone to rust.
Though granted you can also buy good quality cheaper cutlery too (just last week I picked up a set of 16 pieces for £16. Bargain)
Cheap cutlery can often be thin or made from cheaper steal that is more prone to rust.
Though granted you can also buy good quality cheaper cutlery too (just last week I picked up a set of 16 pieces for £16. Bargain)
If you start with lots of spares, it works for a pretty good amount of time.
Let's say your family has 5 full time members and is timely at doing dishes. 15 sets of flatware would probably be plenty, but sometimes you have extra guests, so start with 20-25.
If you lose or break items and get down to 15, and the set is no longer available, get rid of what you have and get a new set of 20-25.
Don't care also works fine.
Let's say your family has 5 full time members and is timely at doing dishes. 15 sets of flatware would probably be plenty, but sometimes you have extra guests, so start with 20-25.
If you lose or break items and get down to 15, and the set is no longer available, get rid of what you have and get a new set of 20-25.
Don't care also works fine.
Maybe restaurant supply stores? Likely more durable than consumer stuff, and the manufacturer is likely to maintain a product line for years. Restaurants are not going to be ok with mismatched pieces.
You can often find replacements for whatever has broken via the aptly named Replacements, Ltd:
https://www.replacements.com/
https://www.replacements.com/
I've actually taken myself thinking along those lines today. Our induction hob broke and no one will service it, so need to buy a new one. The one that broke came with the apartment, and I've been perfectly happy with it.
But now I have a choice. I can choose the hob myself! But it's such a pressure! I'll probably not buy a new one for 5+ (hopefully 10) years, so it should be good! And not have annoying little quirks I'll notice much more when it was me making the decision. And what's the best bang for buck? Which features do I need? So many choices, and I'd probably be happy with whatever. But I've spent the last two evenings becoming an expert in induction hobs..
But now I have a choice. I can choose the hob myself! But it's such a pressure! I'll probably not buy a new one for 5+ (hopefully 10) years, so it should be good! And not have annoying little quirks I'll notice much more when it was me making the decision. And what's the best bang for buck? Which features do I need? So many choices, and I'd probably be happy with whatever. But I've spent the last two evenings becoming an expert in induction hobs..
My advice, prepare to be disappointed whatever you buy. The state of modern appliances is a dismal landscape of bare minimum functionality and corner cutting.
We tried to avoid the garbage tide by thinking "you get what you pay for" and paid a lot expecting a better outcome. Ha! The Miele dishwasher we got didn't last 5 years. Turns out the fancy German engineering does not help with reliability but with creating overcomplicated designs with more moving parts.
The d/w that the Miele replaced was a damaged floor model we got for $100 from the orange store. It was so bare the bottom had no cover (by design) and all the parts were exposed, buttressed by some styrofoam and glued to a unibody plastic tub. It literally looked like something out of an injection molding machine with a bunch of parts randomly stuck to it. And yet it lasted longer than the replacement. We're going back to absolute cheapest and expecting to just replace every few years and still come out ahead.
We tried to avoid the garbage tide by thinking "you get what you pay for" and paid a lot expecting a better outcome. Ha! The Miele dishwasher we got didn't last 5 years. Turns out the fancy German engineering does not help with reliability but with creating overcomplicated designs with more moving parts.
The d/w that the Miele replaced was a damaged floor model we got for $100 from the orange store. It was so bare the bottom had no cover (by design) and all the parts were exposed, buttressed by some styrofoam and glued to a unibody plastic tub. It literally looked like something out of an injection molding machine with a bunch of parts randomly stuck to it. And yet it lasted longer than the replacement. We're going back to absolute cheapest and expecting to just replace every few years and still come out ahead.
For the people interested with the link. The blog post "The Best" is talking about a silverware set which is good for a museum, and only for a museum, it is impossible to eat with it.
I'm sure there's middle ground. I have my favorite cheapish Ikea line of cutlery and scorn any other.
[deleted]
My takeaway from that post is: What happened to svbtle?
It was hot shit here for a little while, but why couldn't it really break out like medium and substack did?
It was hot shit here for a little while, but why couldn't it really break out like medium and substack did?
It's still chugging along. I suspect, but do not know, that it went the middle road of solid growth with reasonable return on investment as opposed to the pop-up monetization shit hole that is Medium.
[deleted]
I'm a materials junkie. My wine glasses are made of ZrO2 stabilized by Y2O3. My daily work is to convert carbon-bearing gases into diamond through plasma chemistry. I've long considered making diamond knife blades, although recent literature searches have put me off a bit, given their demonstration that brittle ceramic blades like Zirconium oxide shed sharp microparticles that I doubt are good for the ingester.
Nevertheless, I have made several small solid diamond blades (~15 cm long) that I've used to cut filet mignon. With load cells attached, the draw force to cut with a diamond blade is <20% of the draw force needed for an equivalent steel blade coated with titanium nitride and overcoated with a thin Teflon layer, about 5% of the draw force required by a custom Japanese knife. I have one diamond blade in my kitchen that I use as a paring knife. It's the very best tool I own.
I'm gratified that our ancestors figured out how to make superlatively sharp blades knowing essentially nothing of the science underlying their work. They were very smart and attuned to the aesthetics of their work.
Thanks again for the post. Materials are endlessly fascinating.