Making holes without an electric drill(theplywood.com)
theplywood.com
Making holes without an electric drill
https://theplywood.com/holes-without-electric-drill/
80 comments
How dumb of an idea would it be to somehow attach your electric drill to your manual whisk handle?
The whisk actually works like the electric ones. It has two “whisks” and then it has some sort of wheel that you turn around to make them spin. It’s really astonishing how something so simple can challenge my English so much lol. But you can get drills that work in a similar fashion, I know because we had them at carpentry class when I was in what we call folkeskolen, so maybe the school that you go to before high school?
I've done basically that but with a beater; you have to run the drill quite slow but it works.
There’s an episode of Good Eats where Alton Brown chucks a cordless drill onto a pepper grinder to pretty good effect.
I’ve done this with my coffee mill. The grind shaft is a hex and the chuck connects perfectly. I like to do it manually normally, but the kids get a kick out of turbo grind mode.
https://images.app.goo.gl/eTfa2bnUGFV9sQq97
https://images.app.goo.gl/eTfa2bnUGFV9sQq97
I saw that episode and imitated with my Milwaukee cordless drill. It's very very good.
It's tough to overemphasize just how good electric drills are. Even the hand tool obsessed people will use them.
I don't think the whisk technique would work to make mayo. Or you must be much, much stronger than I am.
Mayo is really not difficult to hand whisk. It's pretty much the only way I make it, which is once every week or two. Blenders are nice when you need a larger quantity, but for a small amount I find them to be a nuisance.
I use a stick blender in a 2-cup pyrex measuring cup. Seems to make the perfect amount in about 30s.
I've made mayo with a hand whisk, it doesn't require very vigorous beating as it does patience to not add the oil too quickly.
I'm surprised that the article doesn't recommend an ordinary hand drill, like the one Fiskars makes, for creating pilot holes. Are push drills generally considered superior?
I have both: A Stanley "egg beater" drill, and an old Yankee push drill. Each has its advantages:
The Stanley has a conventional chuck, and can take any size drill, including a Unibit. It produces a smoother hole and is more controlled when you break through the other side of sheet material. It's a tad more expensive than the Fiskars, but looks to be a lot better made.
The Yankee only requires one hand, so you can hold the workpiece with the other, hang onto a ladder, etc. But it produces a rougher hole, and will break through quite abruptly. But for something like a pilot hole for a screw, which doesn't need super precision anyway, it's fine.
Both are super convenient: Lightweight, compact, don't need any forethought to make sure they're charged, no worry if they get rained on.
If I had to have just one, it would be the Stanley, but the Yankee was given to me by a friend who collects old hand tools. Like the above poster, I greatly prefer hand tools when I can get away with using them.
The Stanley has a conventional chuck, and can take any size drill, including a Unibit. It produces a smoother hole and is more controlled when you break through the other side of sheet material. It's a tad more expensive than the Fiskars, but looks to be a lot better made.
The Yankee only requires one hand, so you can hold the workpiece with the other, hang onto a ladder, etc. But it produces a rougher hole, and will break through quite abruptly. But for something like a pilot hole for a screw, which doesn't need super precision anyway, it's fine.
Both are super convenient: Lightweight, compact, don't need any forethought to make sure they're charged, no worry if they get rained on.
If I had to have just one, it would be the Stanley, but the Yankee was given to me by a friend who collects old hand tools. Like the above poster, I greatly prefer hand tools when I can get away with using them.
And punch/punch press, laser, waterjet, plasma cutter, mill, projectile and, of course, shaped charge.
Electrical discharge milling is so cool, but expensive (tens of thousands of dollars for a machine). It's got to be the most overkill and surgical way to drill out stripped screws though.
Oops. I forgot about EDM. Should have remembered as I have had EDM stuff done, although a long time ago.
This being HN, I really expected more how to by Randall Munroe sorts of answers.
(BTW, you forgot the railgun, nano-sized black hole, antimatter beam, and trained termite "drill squad".)
(BTW, you forgot the railgun, nano-sized black hole, antimatter beam, and trained termite "drill squad".)
[deleted]
Plus one for the shaped charge! Waterjets are pretty cool so...
Applied Science made an experimental (dangerous) waterjet abrasive cutter from a modified pressure washer, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg__B6Ca3jc
I've used most of those alternatives in my life. Here is my advice:
The best way to avoid being caught without the right drill bit is to have MULTIPLE sets. They're dirt cheap and never go bad (unless you leave them exposed to the weather).
Get a spare drill while you're at it. Hell, get two; they're dirt cheap.
All this fiddling about with inferior or not-quite-right-for-the-job tools makes for great HN reading, but is rather pointless in the real world.
Also: Drill a pilot hole first.
The only cases where I'd say older is better would be places where the quality has gone so far downhill that it impacts the work. Things like:
- nails
- screws
- chisels
- axes
- knives (although there are still plenty of good knife makers today)
- heavy equipment like drill presses, lathes, pipe benders, etc
The best way to avoid being caught without the right drill bit is to have MULTIPLE sets. They're dirt cheap and never go bad (unless you leave them exposed to the weather).
Get a spare drill while you're at it. Hell, get two; they're dirt cheap.
All this fiddling about with inferior or not-quite-right-for-the-job tools makes for great HN reading, but is rather pointless in the real world.
Also: Drill a pilot hole first.
The only cases where I'd say older is better would be places where the quality has gone so far downhill that it impacts the work. Things like:
- nails
- screws
- chisels
- axes
- knives (although there are still plenty of good knife makers today)
- heavy equipment like drill presses, lathes, pipe benders, etc
Where would one find older screws? What do you think of SPAX and GRK screws?
Not OP, but modern screws, bought from reputable suppliers, are absolutely fine. SPAX and GRK are extremely strong in both dimensions; they won't snap when you haul on them with an impact drill and the holding force is extremely...hold-y.
If you buy wood screws on Amazon, maybe they have thinner-than-spec threads and get weird. Maybe. I've done it (I can't get, say, oval-head slotted brass screws here too easily, so the internet's the option) and never had problems when I've drilled pilot holes and countersunk them correctly, even on fairly large pieces.
If you buy wood screws on Amazon, maybe they have thinner-than-spec threads and get weird. Maybe. I've done it (I can't get, say, oval-head slotted brass screws here too easily, so the internet's the option) and never had problems when I've drilled pilot holes and countersunk them correctly, even on fairly large pieces.
[deleted]
weird hn strikes again. I learned about most of this stuff in trade tech school and I think its really neat people on this site are interested.
I use rotary impact drivers and drill presses all day long at work. there's no shame. gimlets see a lot of use in jewelry and my foreman once said you never sharpen them because they're generally case hardened and snap too easily. they're very fine instruments in the hand.
for you drill owners out there the best advice I can offer is always punch your holes first, always wear safety glasses and learn to sharpen your bits.
I use rotary impact drivers and drill presses all day long at work. there's no shame. gimlets see a lot of use in jewelry and my foreman once said you never sharpen them because they're generally case hardened and snap too easily. they're very fine instruments in the hand.
for you drill owners out there the best advice I can offer is always punch your holes first, always wear safety glasses and learn to sharpen your bits.
> always punch your holes first
Definitely. And this is why, if you've got the money, why a drill+driver set is pretty handy - you drill with the drill, then you drive the screw with the impact driver, and you haven't had to mess around with switching your bits. (I have two of each in the shop, because sometimes I need a #10 T20 and a #8 T15 screw at the same time, and that means separate drills and separate drivers.)
Definitely. And this is why, if you've got the money, why a drill+driver set is pretty handy - you drill with the drill, then you drive the screw with the impact driver, and you haven't had to mess around with switching your bits. (I have two of each in the shop, because sometimes I need a #10 T20 and a #8 T15 screw at the same time, and that means separate drills and separate drivers.)
> always punch your holes first
Anytime I'm drilling a lot of holes, screwing a lot of screws, or screwing any number of screws but with a high accuracy requirement, I pre-drill with a tapered bit (example: https://www.amazon.com/FTG-USA-Replacement-Countersink-Taper...). They're typically used with countersink bits, but that's not how I use them most often. They're just really good at nailing a hole location quickly and accurately. And for things like framing, they are good at setting pilots for toe screws which can sometimes otherwise be annoying to do.
Anytime I'm drilling a lot of holes, screwing a lot of screws, or screwing any number of screws but with a high accuracy requirement, I pre-drill with a tapered bit (example: https://www.amazon.com/FTG-USA-Replacement-Countersink-Taper...). They're typically used with countersink bits, but that's not how I use them most often. They're just really good at nailing a hole location quickly and accurately. And for things like framing, they are good at setting pilots for toe screws which can sometimes otherwise be annoying to do.
That's an interesting hack. I typically use brad-point bits instead because I've got multiple indexes of them.
Some non-generic widgets:
PB Swiss center punch with tungsten carbide point for hard metals, https://www.pbswisstools.com/en/tools/quality-hand-tools/str...
YG-1 (South Korea) spiral flute tap, evacuates metal chips, useful for custom device enclosures, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8T4ST2/ & https://yg1usa.com/
Norseman bits (USA), http://norsemandrill.com/
PB Swiss center punch with tungsten carbide point for hard metals, https://www.pbswisstools.com/en/tools/quality-hand-tools/str...
YG-1 (South Korea) spiral flute tap, evacuates metal chips, useful for custom device enclosures, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8T4ST2/ & https://yg1usa.com/
Norseman bits (USA), http://norsemandrill.com/
>PB Swiss center punch with tungsten carbide point for hard metals
I feel like anyone drilling stuff that's harder than 40 HRC, or worse yet, 40+ HRC stainless steel; will be worrying more about bit choice or feeds and speeds than choice of center punch.
I feel like anyone drilling stuff that's harder than 40 HRC, or worse yet, 40+ HRC stainless steel; will be worrying more about bit choice or feeds and speeds than choice of center punch.
Article says you can't plunge with a jigsaw, but you can... not pretty but does work.
It also takes a bit of skill and gumption, but yeah, its doable.
You tip the saw forward on its table so the blade is above the wood, hold down the “Go” button, and slowly lean the jigsaw back towards flat. It is important that the jigsaw’s table is in solid contact with the wood the, erm, hole time.
You tip the saw forward on its table so the blade is above the wood, hold down the “Go” button, and slowly lean the jigsaw back towards flat. It is important that the jigsaw’s table is in solid contact with the wood the, erm, hole time.
I can vouch for the fact that this works, though I'd consider it something of a last resort.
I was about to write this off as a case of "If you do DIY you probably have a drill", but then I remembered that hand tools do have a weight advantage and having some way to drill in a small field repair kit wouldn't be a bad thing at all. Although, perhaps a micro rotary tool would be better in some cases.
I still don't understand the people that say gand drills are more convenient for just one or two drills, unless they are comparing to a corded drill. I don't think I've ever actually used a corded drill though.
I still don't understand the people that say gand drills are more convenient for just one or two drills, unless they are comparing to a corded drill. I don't think I've ever actually used a corded drill though.
The router instructions make no sense to me.
Why plunge a router and then switch to a jigsaw to make a large circular hole in a sheet of plywood? Just move the router around instead.
You can use a bit that can follow a template to make this as accurate as you'd like, but freehand is usually sufficient.
Also: A notable omission in the "other powertools" section is the angle grinder. Both to "saw" a hole, and by attaching a drill chuck to the grinder. At that point it's basically an electric drill with another form factor.
Why plunge a router and then switch to a jigsaw to make a large circular hole in a sheet of plywood? Just move the router around instead.
You can use a bit that can follow a template to make this as accurate as you'd like, but freehand is usually sufficient.
Also: A notable omission in the "other powertools" section is the angle grinder. Both to "saw" a hole, and by attaching a drill chuck to the grinder. At that point it's basically an electric drill with another form factor.
The router won’t cut as quickly, especially with thicker materials. You absolutely can, though.
This is the correct answer, and router bits are quite the expensive piece of equipment; jigsaw blades are cheap.
https://www.rockler.com/power-tools/routers/router-bits
https://www.rockler.com/power-tools/routers/router-bits
You can splurge on router bits, but I've also got a set of perfectly usable 12mm bits from AliExpress that I've even used for hardwood, and which will be just fine for any plywood.
You can also spend a lot of money on drill bits if you're seeking perfection over the perfectly adequate.
You can also spend a lot of money on drill bits if you're seeking perfection over the perfectly adequate.
So, those router bits from Ali are likely to have a few concerns:
- Lower quality metal, meaning they need to be sharpened more often.
- Looser tolerances, more vibration for you/the router to compensate for, and a lower quality finish.
- Consistency between blades will be low.
Perfectly adequate is ok for low frequency and low expectations, but not for anyone expecting high output or high expectations.
- Lower quality metal, meaning they need to be sharpened more often.
- Looser tolerances, more vibration for you/the router to compensate for, and a lower quality finish.
- Consistency between blades will be low.
Perfectly adequate is ok for low frequency and low expectations, but not for anyone expecting high output or high expectations.
As far as I can tell, router bits from AliExpress use the same sort of carbide as the 10-20x more expensive ones available from retail shops here in NZ, and they're cheap enough I wouldn't even consider having them sharpened. We're talking a few dollars for a straight bit, maybe low teens dollars for something fancier.
Never noticed vibration issues with router bits from AliExpress, though I do use a 1/2" router and don't tend to use huge bits so it would have to be pretty far out of whack to make a difference. Same for tolerance. That said, I also wouldn't reach for a power tool as the last step to a very nice surface finish or very high precision fit.
Never noticed vibration issues with router bits from AliExpress, though I do use a 1/2" router and don't tend to use huge bits so it would have to be pretty far out of whack to make a difference. Same for tolerance. That said, I also wouldn't reach for a power tool as the last step to a very nice surface finish or very high precision fit.
Carbide alloy quality is probably hard to tell by eye. Also hard to tell by eye, and a little scarier, is how well they're adhered to the bit head.
I also use cheap router bits on occasion, but the second one misbehaves even slightly I go ahead and buy an Amana or similarly high-end one, because obviously I've used it enough for it to be worth it.
I also use cheap router bits on occasion, but the second one misbehaves even slightly I go ahead and buy an Amana or similarly high-end one, because obviously I've used it enough for it to be worth it.
I'm basing my statement on how the bits function in actual use; for me the cheapies are plenty adequate and the types I need are available, so far there's been no reason to consider buying high-end ones.
Yes, anecdote, but I also have some not-cheapies that came with used tools, inherited from woodworker family, etc. and so don't feel like this is a case where I just don't know what I'm missing. The volumes of work I do are way too small to justify a real comparison test, basically it's hobby stuff, but pros probably aren't going to be taking router bit advice on HN anyway...
Yes, anecdote, but I also have some not-cheapies that came with used tools, inherited from woodworker family, etc. and so don't feel like this is a case where I just don't know what I'm missing. The volumes of work I do are way too small to justify a real comparison test, basically it's hobby stuff, but pros probably aren't going to be taking router bit advice on HN anyway...
Add a Jasper circle jig to your plunge router and you'll have a hard time finding a better solution to cutting arbitrary sized holes in sheet goods
Whatever happened to cutting with a tuned laser?
I heard about it a decade ago. A laser tuned to the resonant frequency of skin. The protein or whatever.
Low power, with no burning, no heat damage. Melted right through, cleanly. Unravelled those little molecules. A wonderful cutting device.
And maybe you could match a laser to any material. Wood? Glass? A very clean cut. Maybe even safer.
I heard about it a decade ago. A laser tuned to the resonant frequency of skin. The protein or whatever.
Low power, with no burning, no heat damage. Melted right through, cleanly. Unravelled those little molecules. A wonderful cutting device.
And maybe you could match a laser to any material. Wood? Glass? A very clean cut. Maybe even safer.
As far as I know, most laser cutters available to hobbyists for cutting wood are either diode or CO2 based, and both have a risk of setting the wood on fire, as well as generate a fair amount of smoke and combustion gases.
For cutting holes into wood as a hobbyist, a CNC machine with the appropriate tool will give far superior output for the purpose of making holes in wood.
For cutting holes into wood as a hobbyist, a CNC machine with the appropriate tool will give far superior output for the purpose of making holes in wood.
[deleted]
I wonder what's good for making holes in plastic? I've had bad luck using drills since it can melt the plastic and gunk up the bit.
I have had great results with a Unibit... as in, 1000's of holes for a small gadget that I make for my side business. They have zero rake angle, so they don't pull through thin sheet material.
Keep them as sharp as possible to minimize heating. The bit that I use for plastic isn't allowed to touch metal. If coolant is needed, plain water works just fine. Some oils will craze plastic.
Brad point bits also work well. If you're not doing production work, just be patient and proceed slowly to avoid heat buildup.
Keep them as sharp as possible to minimize heating. The bit that I use for plastic isn't allowed to touch metal. If coolant is needed, plain water works just fine. Some oils will craze plastic.
Brad point bits also work well. If you're not doing production work, just be patient and proceed slowly to avoid heat buildup.
Often for weird materials you either need really low speed or really high speed.
https://ruko.shop/blogs/ruko-shop-blog/which-drill-bits-to-u...
https://ruko.shop/blogs/ruko-shop-blog/which-drill-bits-to-u...
Which type of drill bits you tried? There are drill bits made specifically for plastics.
[deleted]
[deleted]
Don't forget the pin vise!
I would have liked some pictures to know what I'm reading about
Primitive Technology on YT has built some of these tools and cut holes with hot coals.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGnWLXjIDnpBancnnrjhxvvXu...
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGnWLXjIDnpBancnnrjhxvvXu...
Yes, this would have been more satisfying and faster to consume as a youtube video.
I recommend the Primitive Technology channel for this! He uses almost all of these to some extent.
^^
[deleted]
I like that it's extensive, but a bit too extensive to answer the original question: what is the replacement for an electric drill?
The standard crank drill is clearly the alternative [1]. Most home users should not purchase an electric drill IMO. They dont need it. It will likely never drill more than a few dozen holes.
[1] https://www.amazon.com/Frylr-Speedy-Powerful-Manual-1-5MM-10...
The standard crank drill is clearly the alternative [1]. Most home users should not purchase an electric drill IMO. They dont need it. It will likely never drill more than a few dozen holes.
[1] https://www.amazon.com/Frylr-Speedy-Powerful-Manual-1-5MM-10...
Most home owners with any DIY interest should purchase an electric drill, because what they'll be purchasing is almost certainly a cordless model with a torque limiter.
Those are useful for everything from assembling IKEA furniture to taking apart a car. The drilling function is secondary or tertiary.
But sure, if you mean a giant corded impact drill used to drill into concrete almost nobody needs that.
Those are useful for everything from assembling IKEA furniture to taking apart a car. The drilling function is secondary or tertiary.
But sure, if you mean a giant corded impact drill used to drill into concrete almost nobody needs that.
> giant corded impact drill used to drill into concrete
Tons of people need that - how else do you hang pictures on stone walls? And they are not so giant - they are the same size as regular drills.
Tons of people need that - how else do you hang pictures on stone walls? And they are not so giant - they are the same size as regular drills.
As the sibling comment noted I meant an SDS.
I hang pictures on walls with a kit gun and fast drying kit usually.
You can buy kit (or glue) that could easily hold your bodyweight if applied to an area the size of your palm.
Of courses you're gluing it to the paint, but that's usually strongly bonded.
I'd drill into brick to put a structural anchor in, but not to hang a picture.
I hang pictures on walls with a kit gun and fast drying kit usually.
You can buy kit (or glue) that could easily hold your bodyweight if applied to an area the size of your palm.
Of courses you're gluing it to the paint, but that's usually strongly bonded.
I'd drill into brick to put a structural anchor in, but not to hang a picture.
I think he's referring to an SDS, which no, home users absolutely don't need.
And most homes are wood stud and drywall, where you don't even really need a hammer drill or the impact bit of an impact driver.
And most homes are wood stud and drywall, where you don't even really need a hammer drill or the impact bit of an impact driver.
"a giant corded impact drill used to drill into concrete, almost nobody needs that"
I had to rent one once to put a conduit through a concrete block wall reinforced with concrete fill and rebar. Not fun.
I had to rent one once to put a conduit through a concrete block wall reinforced with concrete fill and rebar. Not fun.
Attempting to keep an eggbeater drill square to the drilled surface is a considerable ask for someone who isn't practiced, particularly somebody on the smaller side. It's ergonomically working against you the entire time due to its length. I can buy a Black and Decker (budget brand, but it's fine for light home use) corded drill at $25 that's plenty for home use and won't be frustrating the novice user every time they want to set a point.
And that one in particular hates its user specifically; keyless chucks are way better, too, for novices because of the likelihood that that chuck key is going to get lost in a move or the like. They also aren't that expensive--the aforementioned Black and Decker corded drill has one.
And that one in particular hates its user specifically; keyless chucks are way better, too, for novices because of the likelihood that that chuck key is going to get lost in a move or the like. They also aren't that expensive--the aforementioned Black and Decker corded drill has one.
You could also go directly to this pretty number: https://bridgecitytools.com/products/pb-2-palm-brace
That’s as expensive as an extremely low end electric drill.
As a bonus, it's much slower, which leads to fewer fuckups at the ends of projects. They are really only good up to about 1/4" holes though. If you get one with multiple speeds, you can go to 3/8", but you're really much better off with a brace and some auger bits at that point. Auger bits are conveniently sized by the 1/16" down to 1/4" in the US, and have been for over a century.
In all seriousness though, an eggbeater drill will last forever. Mine are probably 70 years old or older. Ditto my brace. Good luck finding batteries for any electric cordless drill in 20 years, never mind a cheap one.
In all seriousness though, an eggbeater drill will last forever. Mine are probably 70 years old or older. Ditto my brace. Good luck finding batteries for any electric cordless drill in 20 years, never mind a cheap one.
Just going through this now. Everything is lithium now and can’t find reasonably priced OEM batteries for my drill I bought in 2007.
Depending on your battery platform you might be able to find an adapter. DeWalt for instance sells an adapter to use their newer 20v lithium batteries on tools built for their older 18v platform:
https://a.co/d/73x4MGy
You can also find third-party adapters to convert between basically any two battery platforms.
https://a.co/d/73x4MGy
You can also find third-party adapters to convert between basically any two battery platforms.
Ah! It is the dewalt 18v!! Never thought to look for an adapter!
> Good luck finding batteries for any electric cordless drill in 20 years, never mind a cheap one.
Even if the existing 18V/20V-max format doesn't survive another 20 years--an assertion I don't really expect to be true, see for example DeWalt's in-progress switch to stacked cells without any tool deprecation--the world will not be without 18650 cells in twenty years. And you can buy a corded drill if you really want to.
I own a bit and brace and to me it's useful for exactly one thing: compound angles during chairmaking. Literally everything else, from low-and-slow picture-framing tasks to boring out Euro hinge holes, is faster, more accurate, and (for me) more enjoyably done with a tool fit for purpose and with modern affordances--a cordless hand drill and drill press, respectively.
Even if the existing 18V/20V-max format doesn't survive another 20 years--an assertion I don't really expect to be true, see for example DeWalt's in-progress switch to stacked cells without any tool deprecation--the world will not be without 18650 cells in twenty years. And you can buy a corded drill if you really want to.
I own a bit and brace and to me it's useful for exactly one thing: compound angles during chairmaking. Literally everything else, from low-and-slow picture-framing tasks to boring out Euro hinge holes, is faster, more accurate, and (for me) more enjoyably done with a tool fit for purpose and with modern affordances--a cordless hand drill and drill press, respectively.
So I’m an idiot like that, and you might expect me to use a manual drill (I guess it would be auxiliary drill if Google translate is right), and until I bought a house you would have been right. Now I own both an electrical drill and a drill hammer. So while my whipped cream still takes a few minutes more than an electro mixer you won’t ever find me drilling a hole without a power tool. It’s just not worth it.
Great article though, it’s nice to see all the options covered.