An Invisible City Beneath Paris(newyorker.com)
newyorker.com
An Invisible City Beneath Paris
https://www.newyorker.com/news/dispatch/the-invisible-city-beneath-paris
37 comments
I went to the public part, on a guided tour.
You only get to see a small part of the many, many millions of bones, piled from floor to ceiling. And somehow, while you're down there, you adapt quickly to the "new normal" and it's simply morbidly fascinating. Like being in a haunted house.
But then, once you take the elevator back up to the surface, and you walk down the same street in normal life with normal people... and you realize the many, many, many millions of bones (an estimated 6-7 million people) weren't a horror movie you saw that's now ended, but are still right there, just a mere five stories beneath your feet. And they're not going anywhere. It was only then that I realized... it was real. Not a movie, not fake. It's a crazy experience.
You only get to see a small part of the many, many millions of bones, piled from floor to ceiling. And somehow, while you're down there, you adapt quickly to the "new normal" and it's simply morbidly fascinating. Like being in a haunted house.
But then, once you take the elevator back up to the surface, and you walk down the same street in normal life with normal people... and you realize the many, many, many millions of bones (an estimated 6-7 million people) weren't a horror movie you saw that's now ended, but are still right there, just a mere five stories beneath your feet. And they're not going anywhere. It was only then that I realized... it was real. Not a movie, not fake. It's a crazy experience.
For those who will probably never get a chance to actually visit, a quick Google finds maps of the tunnel system and you can see just how large it is (public part is the red area):
http://bienfun.free.fr/Plan-des-catacombes-nexus-2007.jpg
https://blogs.valpo.edu/studyabroad/files/2011/03/plan_catac...
(In French, naturally, but French<>English is one of the cases where Google Translate works very well.)
http://bienfun.free.fr/Plan-des-catacombes-nexus-2007.jpg
https://blogs.valpo.edu/studyabroad/files/2011/03/plan_catac...
(In French, naturally, but French<>English is one of the cases where Google Translate works very well.)
Isn't that possibly the map the journalist got to see as well?
> The plan of the above-ground city is traced carefully in pale silver-gray ink, such that, if you read only for the gray, you can discern the faint footprints of apartment blocks and embassies, parks and ornamental gardens, boulevards and streets, the churches, the railway lines and the train stations, all hovering there, intricate and immaterial.
> The map’s real content—the topography it inks in black and blue and orange and red—is the invisible city
> The plan of the above-ground city is traced carefully in pale silver-gray ink, such that, if you read only for the gray, you can discern the faint footprints of apartment blocks and embassies, parks and ornamental gardens, boulevards and streets, the churches, the railway lines and the train stations, all hovering there, intricate and immaterial.
> The map’s real content—the topography it inks in black and blue and orange and red—is the invisible city
One of my biggest regrets is not visiting this place when I was living in Paris.
A friend of a friend knew the ropes and his way around and was eager to show the foreigner his hidden playground.
I didn't entertain the offer out of fear for my own safety.
Carpe diem.
A friend of a friend knew the ropes and his way around and was eager to show the foreigner his hidden playground.
I didn't entertain the offer out of fear for my own safety.
Carpe diem.
I would love to visit, but this article made me want something even simpler. I wish I had the time to read the New Yorker more often.
The New Yorker is the one US magazine I subscribe to. It's only about 1 Euro per week even outside the US, so I don't feel bad about not reading it. I'm also planning to use the collected covers to paper a kitchen wall soon, which will solidify my reputation of an insufferable hipster but also look kinda neat.
Much cheaper: subscribe to Apple News+. 30 day free trial, then $9.99/month for total access on computers/tablets/phones. Includes the New Yorker among the 251 magazines available in the U.S. as of March 25, 2019: https://www.macstories.net/news/a-complete-list-of-all-the-m...
Not cheaper than 1 EUR/week
Not available in most of Europe
Can't use it to paper a wall
Not available in most of Europe
Can't use it to paper a wall
Robert Macfarlane (the author of this article) has written some great books. The last one I read was The Wild Places [1] which I highly recommend.
[1] https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/2688775-the-wild-places
[1] https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/2688775-the-wild-places
I went down into these a few times with more knowledgable (or foolhardy?) friends as a teen ager. I found it pretty frightening.
There is an enjoyable book, written by someone who has explored these and (many) other deep places in the world. I think I saw it posted on HN originally.
Book name: Underground
Author: Will hunt
amazon search url: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=under+ground+will+hunt
Book name: Underground
Author: Will hunt
amazon search url: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=under+ground+will+hunt
I’m impressed that they still stick to the carbide lamps instead of switching to LEDs
> An acetylene gas powered lamp produces a bright, broad light. Many cavers prefer this type of unfocused light as it improves peripheral vision in the complete dark. The reaction of carbide with water is exothermic and produces a fair amount of heat independent of the flame. In cold caves, carbide lamp users can use this heat to help stave off hypothermia.
> In cave surveys, carbide lamps are favoured for the lead or "point" surveyor, who must identify suitable points in the cave to designate as survey stations. The sooty carbide flame may be used to mark cave walls with a station label.
> The acetylene producing reaction is exothermic, which means that the lamp's reactor vessel will become quite warm to the touch; this can be used to warm the hands. The heat from the flame can also be used to warm the body by allowing the exhaust gases to flow under a shirt or poncho pulled out from the body, a technique discovered almost immediately by cold miners, and nicknamed by cavers the "Palmer furnace".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbide_lamp
> In cave surveys, carbide lamps are favoured for the lead or "point" surveyor, who must identify suitable points in the cave to designate as survey stations. The sooty carbide flame may be used to mark cave walls with a station label.
> The acetylene producing reaction is exothermic, which means that the lamp's reactor vessel will become quite warm to the touch; this can be used to warm the hands. The heat from the flame can also be used to warm the body by allowing the exhaust gases to flow under a shirt or poncho pulled out from the body, a technique discovered almost immediately by cold miners, and nicknamed by cavers the "Palmer furnace".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbide_lamp
A seasoned cataphile invited me for the yearly gathering of the carbide-lamp holders in the catacombs one night last year. It's really like a different dimension of Paris and truly awesome and unique. It was a party of about 100 people or more, with stolen electricity powering a frenchcore rave dancefloor and everything.
While I highly recommend both the public and the illegal part if you have the chance, definitely don't go without an experienced guide as it can be dangerous for real. There are also strict social codes that should be followed when crossing paths with others down there.
While I highly recommend both the public and the illegal part if you have the chance, definitely don't go without an experienced guide as it can be dangerous for real. There are also strict social codes that should be followed when crossing paths with others down there.
Strict social codes ?
Dangerous ?
Your friend might have been been pulling your leg (or taking himself too seriously..)
There are no social codes. That's the appeal of the catacombs. The space imposes no rules or structure. It is a bubble of freedom. Anything you follow is self imposed.
Your friend might have been been pulling your leg (or taking himself too seriously..)
There are no social codes. That's the appeal of the catacombs. The space imposes no rules or structure. It is a bubble of freedom. Anything you follow is self imposed.
Maybe I should have formulated myself better. Like you say, it's self-imposed/self-enforced.
The danger is definitely real. If you don't know where you're going you might get lost and people get lost for good from time to time. In the more visited parts someone might find you, but if you take a wrong turn and fall in bad luck it's no good.
I don't want a random tourist go unprepared after reading this and have an accident or require medical assistance when it could have been avoided. Just like if you go hiking a mountain or spelunking.
The danger is definitely real. If you don't know where you're going you might get lost and people get lost for good from time to time. In the more visited parts someone might find you, but if you take a wrong turn and fall in bad luck it's no good.
I don't want a random tourist go unprepared after reading this and have an accident or require medical assistance when it could have been avoided. Just like if you go hiking a mountain or spelunking.
Haha I'm not surprised that you've ventured down there.
Did you go the same way as in the article or via another entrance?
Did you go the same way as in the article or via another entrance?
o hai :D
Different one.
You'll have to show me if I visit you in Paris ;)
I asked Nena if she'd ventured down there while she lived in Paris but she had only been top the ones open to the general public.
For sure! August is a great time to visit FWIW, Parisians flee the city for vacation (and the tourist load is always high here any time of the year anyway), so more quiet and calm.
The catacombs are constant temperature, so a great way to escape the heatwave ;)
The catacombs are constant temperature, so a great way to escape the heatwave ;)
Any idea about the crime rate downstairs versus upstairs?
(of course normalized by #people)
(of course normalized by #people)
The pickpocket rates are lower, but the lost-wallet recovery rate is even lower ;)
...and those are some of the rules right there.
>There are also strict social codes that should be followed when crossing paths with others down there.
I'm intrigued... what are they?
I'm intrigued... what are they?
The parent may have more direct insight, but the article does discuss the rules: "The rules were few, and clear. Respect the past of the catacombs. Take out what you take in. Resources are to be shared, even with strangers. No selling and no buying: barter exchange or gifting are the only acceptable modes of transaction. Help is to be given wherever necessary. Create with care—and do not destroy."
At least the person who introduced me told me one should be personally introduced - so I will respect it and leave it at that (it's nothing weird or complicated though and I wouldn't be surprised if rulesets have mutated and forked over time and subgroups). If you are ever in Paris and interested, feel free to reach out :)
I didn't actually read the article, but from what I heard the catacombs used to be a lot less safe. I've been told that in the 90s it would be a very bad idea to venture down as one or a small group of women without significant risk for personal safety. Some of the rules definitely come from just being able to preserve the space and experience, but I would guess that some of the social codes also come from enforcing a safer space.
I didn't actually read the article, but from what I heard the catacombs used to be a lot less safe. I've been told that in the 90s it would be a very bad idea to venture down as one or a small group of women without significant risk for personal safety. Some of the rules definitely come from just being able to preserve the space and experience, but I would guess that some of the social codes also come from enforcing a safer space.
The vast, vast majority of people go with LEDs.
Light is important in the catacombs, so it's no surprise that certain lamps are more legendary than others.
The carbide lamps are capricious, require maintenance, ruin your night vision, burn your pants and will explode at some point. But they also put out a lovely light, especially for when you're sitting in a room.
A large number of people go down with the lights of their phones these days.
A large number of people go down with the lights of their phones these days.
earlier HN item https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19386038
This article, like others, are so eager to wrap an outing into the catacombs as some type of adventure, a mystical experience, where misstep ends in death and dying a slow death in a deep corner of a labyrinth is inevitable but for your guide.
The catacombs are the Parisian equivalent of hanging out in the woods / trainyard / whatever when you were 19 - 25. Paris is en expensive city. When you're young and want to go out / get drunk / leave the watchful eye of your parents and societal structures, you go into the catacombs.
If you go the weekends, you have to try very very hard to avoid people. There are no "catacomb rules" or codes of conduct. It's a place used for self expression, typically of youth, and mainly for socialising.
It's a little bit frustrating to see articles rendering what is very much a commonplace affair hyperbolic.