How To Get Started In Soldering(popularmechanics.com)
popularmechanics.com
How To Get Started In Soldering
https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/a43400768/how-to-get-started-in-soldering/
280 comments
Its the rule supposedly came up with by Adam Savage - buy cheap tools, use em til you break em, then replace the ones you break with expensive, good tools.
The idea of that rule is so new makers can work out what tools they actually are using, so they don't waste a shitload of money.
In practice? Some tools are just worth spending the money on upfront, inferior tools will often lead to frustration and failure early on.
The problem is people think Adams rule just applies everywhere, because he is famous etc.
I actually have a draft blog post on this exact topic that I'm not finished, with examples from my own experiences.
The idea of that rule is so new makers can work out what tools they actually are using, so they don't waste a shitload of money.
In practice? Some tools are just worth spending the money on upfront, inferior tools will often lead to frustration and failure early on.
The problem is people think Adams rule just applies everywhere, because he is famous etc.
I actually have a draft blog post on this exact topic that I'm not finished, with examples from my own experiences.
I also think he's talking about tools where inferior means build quality vs. performance. You can go buy a bunch of cheap wrenches from Harbor Freight and they'll be just fine compared to Snap-On.
> Quality is an issue, true. But for beginning makers there is often no cheaper alternative. Back in the day I’d “test buy” a tool from HFT and then if it was useful I’d invest in a more substantial version. Also browsing their aisles is a singular pleasure. https://twitter.com/donttrythis/status/941149124497305600
> Quality is an issue, true. But for beginning makers there is often no cheaper alternative. Back in the day I’d “test buy” a tool from HFT and then if it was useful I’d invest in a more substantial version. Also browsing their aisles is a singular pleasure. https://twitter.com/donttrythis/status/941149124497305600
Yeah, the context is important.
Unfortunately the context went missing as soon as the "rule" started making it around hacker/maker internet.
Unfortunately the context went missing as soon as the "rule" started making it around hacker/maker internet.
>You can go buy a bunch of cheap wrenches from Harbor Freight and they'll be just fine compared to Snap-On.
Harbor Freight wrenches are actually really good, and an excellent value for the money. I've even met pro mechanics that used them.
Harbor Freight power tools are a different deal though.
Harbor Freight wrenches are actually really good, and an excellent value for the money. I've even met pro mechanics that used them.
Harbor Freight power tools are a different deal though.
FWIW, Harbor Freight has only relatively recently made a concerted effort to start selling higher quality stuff and to shirk the "only sells cheap junk" label. And even now, there's a lot of variance (in both price and quality) across their various brands. The Icon stuff is pretty good. Maybe not quite on par with Snap-On, but when you consider the price difference, probably a better "bang for your buck." But the Pittsburgh stuff is a few steps down the quality ladder. Some of the other newer brands they've rolled out (Quinn, etc.) I'm less sure about.
They came out with decent slip jaw pliers that were almost as expensive as real channel locks for about the same quality. At that point, the question becomes "do I trust a new brand?" instead of "do I buy lower quality?"
Also worth noting that often the best approach to take is that the tool itself is a consumable. $19 Harbor Freight grinders won't last as long as $150+ ones, but the ~7 you can buy for the same price will outlast even the most expensive one several times over!
Bad tools or consumables break at the most inopportune times and yes, in most cases bad = cheap. People like to compare to Snap-On but forget that Snap-On subsidizes their delivery service with the tool cost. Also, yes, Snap-Ons are in fact that much better than HF tools in almost all cases.
Its bad when a $9 HF torque wrench breaks at 8:45PM on a Sunday night when you're under your car putting the transmission back on. Or a cheap pot-metal screw strips when you have a manufacturing deadline approaching.
I've been in the electronics manufacturing industry for 17 years now and in almost all cases, "buy the best you can afford" is the better mantra. That doesn't go bankrupt over a $1500 dollar Snap-On wrench set, but if you buy the HF stuff, you will spend $1500 in time using their warranty.
Its bad when a $9 HF torque wrench breaks at 8:45PM on a Sunday night when you're under your car putting the transmission back on. Or a cheap pot-metal screw strips when you have a manufacturing deadline approaching.
I've been in the electronics manufacturing industry for 17 years now and in almost all cases, "buy the best you can afford" is the better mantra. That doesn't go bankrupt over a $1500 dollar Snap-On wrench set, but if you buy the HF stuff, you will spend $1500 in time using their warranty.
I have a bunch of my grandpa's professional tools from the '30s-'60s. Other than a motor failing in his electric drill, I've never had problems.
I think your torque wrench example gets to the point of what I was trying to get at. My torque wrenches are Matco, as are my 'good' sockets. And I have a nice set of Mitutoyo calipers in my box for when I need the precision.
But for an awful lot of the regular work, it's Harbor Freight magnets, HF welding blankets and soapstone, HF clamps, HF grinders. You learn what works best for your dollar, and very often, it's erring not on the side of the more expensive stuff.
But for an awful lot of the regular work, it's Harbor Freight magnets, HF welding blankets and soapstone, HF clamps, HF grinders. You learn what works best for your dollar, and very often, it's erring not on the side of the more expensive stuff.
Assuming you place no value on your own time & frustration…
FWIW, I learned this approach while working in the trades as a welder. You have consumables in stock and ready to go, and that includes extra grinders. Some tools you do take the time and effort to really take care of, of course, but a lot more than you might think are in the cattle not pet category of things.
Similar for professional kitchens. They use cheap pots, pans, knives, etc. then replace them when needed. No special Damascus steel knives and copper ply pans, just functional cost effective easy to replace stuff.
...all the professional kitchens I've seen use very nice professional kitchen equipment. They don't use damascus steel knives because that doesn't offer any advantage in function, but they aren't using cheap anything. Pots, pans, and knives work for a very long time and it doesn't make sense spending little to not get good ones. You can't get heavy guage stainless pots and pans for cheap, ply or no ply. The knives are the most used tool in food prep - they spend money on quality steel and good ergonomics so they dont have to work harder than they need to. In some places people bring their own knives.
When you sharpen a knife several times a day it’s going to wear out fast, even if it’s expensive. Pots and pans get bashed about and dropped, which damages even expensive pans.
Maybe it’s different in the UK but we never used fancy knives or cookware in the kitchens I’ve worked.
Maybe it’s different in the UK but we never used fancy knives or cookware in the kitchens I’ve worked.
thats why you use quality knives that need sharpening less often. You still sharpen them because that makes the work take less time and effort. They're not fancy they're just high end. They're not damascus steel because that doesn't offer any actual advantages. Thats why you can get a shitty henkels knife for $50 anywhere you look, but the actual zwilling pro chef's knife is 3x the price - because you don't need to sharpen it as often - it keeps the edge for longer.
It's not a question of fancy. Regular looking pans and pots made from ultra thick gauge stainless steel dont look fancy, but they survive being dropped on the ground without issue.
You have a big miscomprehension if you think expensive = fancy. Not fancy, rather ultra utilitarian but high quality.
It's not a question of fancy. Regular looking pans and pots made from ultra thick gauge stainless steel dont look fancy, but they survive being dropped on the ground without issue.
You have a big miscomprehension if you think expensive = fancy. Not fancy, rather ultra utilitarian but high quality.
I'm trying to learn welding/metal working so I can combine it with woodworking for furniture making. Meaning I know shit about tools compared to a professional.
But I've bought two grinders and have an ancient cheap one from father in-law. My cheap Metabo is relatively quiet and smooth. Cheap Lidl one is loud and jerky. Ancient one I've just thrown away at how bad it was to use. Recently I had to grind some tubing for > hour and my wrists felt it even with the Metabo entry level. Supposedly the pro versions have antivibration, better balanced, speed control, etc.
My point being if I was using this 5 days a week for >1h I'd invest in ease of use/comfort/safety - no ? I'd probably have a few throwaway ones for backup.
But I've bought two grinders and have an ancient cheap one from father in-law. My cheap Metabo is relatively quiet and smooth. Cheap Lidl one is loud and jerky. Ancient one I've just thrown away at how bad it was to use. Recently I had to grind some tubing for > hour and my wrists felt it even with the Metabo entry level. Supposedly the pro versions have antivibration, better balanced, speed control, etc.
My point being if I was using this 5 days a week for >1h I'd invest in ease of use/comfort/safety - no ? I'd probably have a few throwaway ones for backup.
My suggestions-
First, buy a separate handle that you like the feel of. They're dirt simple to swap around between tools. If you're in a large shop, make sure it stays in your lockbox overnight so that it doesn't grow feet.
Second, although honestly more important, make sure you are using the right wheel for the job, with the right pressure (lighter than almost everything thinks), and stay focused on using either the edge or the face, depending on type. This will keep things smoother, slow disc changes, and improve safety by reducing the risk of disc shatter. Detailed explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_n0TSF1i5os&t=162s
Hope that helps.
[edit]- When it comes to welding, I strongly recommend learning stick first, even before MIG. It gives you much better practice learning how to control the puddle without spewing metal everywhere. Bonus points in that it is also very inexpensive, and the welds themselves are usually stronger than MIG. Only disadvantage is speed, but for the types of projects you mentioned, that's not much of an issue. This guy's channel is great: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMtqDWUpJds
First, buy a separate handle that you like the feel of. They're dirt simple to swap around between tools. If you're in a large shop, make sure it stays in your lockbox overnight so that it doesn't grow feet.
Second, although honestly more important, make sure you are using the right wheel for the job, with the right pressure (lighter than almost everything thinks), and stay focused on using either the edge or the face, depending on type. This will keep things smoother, slow disc changes, and improve safety by reducing the risk of disc shatter. Detailed explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_n0TSF1i5os&t=162s
Hope that helps.
[edit]- When it comes to welding, I strongly recommend learning stick first, even before MIG. It gives you much better practice learning how to control the puddle without spewing metal everywhere. Bonus points in that it is also very inexpensive, and the welds themselves are usually stronger than MIG. Only disadvantage is speed, but for the types of projects you mentioned, that's not much of an issue. This guy's channel is great: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMtqDWUpJds
I've had a number of soldering irons over the decades and some of them have been the bare-bones kind. I have needed to make the most of whatever was available.
The cheap small soldering "pencil" irons like they had at Radio Shack were insidiously bad because of the crummy solder that came in the package, and their crummy store brand solder.
I would use only Multicore or Kester solder. Much bigger difference than automatic temperature control.
These are small irons but they still get hotter than the ideal temperature that most long-term assemblers prefer to work at. At least the iron does, but maybe not the tip, especially if it's not screwed in really tight, or if a lot of oxidation has built up in the iron threaded socket the tip screws into. I used to grab the tip at the base with the curved jaws of a wire stripper and screw it in real tight whether hot or cold. Starting when new so no corrosion has a chance to build up.
Different tips will end up with different tip temperatures, but when you've got one of these going properly you can be just as effective as with a controlled unit.
The tips are copper with chrome plating which can be a thin layer, but when it oxidizes it gets more of a sheen rather than building up a crust like plain copper. Solder won't want to stick to the chrome too easy, and once it gets oxidized it's even worse. And the oxidized metal will not transfer heat properly to the work.
For splicing new pure copper wires using a temp-controlled iron, it is common to heat the copper joint with the tip until the solder melts and behaves like mercury as it soaks well into the joint. This often fails with antique wires since the old conductor has an oxidation layer on the strands so the solder will not wet them. Things like this are best carefully tinned individually before joining, using additional cleaning and flux if necessary.
Tinning the new tip is the first thing. Lots of users will wait until the iron heats up too much and try to apply a bit of solder after there is already a thin oxidation layer on the chrome tip. I like to get some solder on the point to wet the chrome as soon as it gets hot enough the first time, then unplug the iron and suspend the tip downward with a fraction of a gram of solder obscuring the point as it hardens. It will really dig into that substrate as it solidifies, and in operation the very tip is the part you are going to have to keep constantly wet with fresh solder, and basically use some liquid metal hanging there to transfer heat more effectively to the work than you can from contact with a non-wet tip of the same temperature. The shaft of the tip will become more and more oxidized, and if the point gets like that you might as well sand it down, most likely down to the copper.
Copper tins real easy but it dissolves in the solder much faster than the chrome so the tip will be much more sacrificial as you continue rinsing it with fresh solder when needed so only the freshest non-oxidized solder will come in contact with your work. With new tips or not, properly sized to the work, stuffing a PCB should not require more flux than there is in the core of the solder.
Unplug it when you're not actually using it, they do not really take that long to heat up when you need it again. They just sit there oxidizing otherwise.
Whatever your approach, you need to be comfortable with handling hot liquid metal to some extent.
The cheap small soldering "pencil" irons like they had at Radio Shack were insidiously bad because of the crummy solder that came in the package, and their crummy store brand solder.
I would use only Multicore or Kester solder. Much bigger difference than automatic temperature control.
These are small irons but they still get hotter than the ideal temperature that most long-term assemblers prefer to work at. At least the iron does, but maybe not the tip, especially if it's not screwed in really tight, or if a lot of oxidation has built up in the iron threaded socket the tip screws into. I used to grab the tip at the base with the curved jaws of a wire stripper and screw it in real tight whether hot or cold. Starting when new so no corrosion has a chance to build up.
Different tips will end up with different tip temperatures, but when you've got one of these going properly you can be just as effective as with a controlled unit.
The tips are copper with chrome plating which can be a thin layer, but when it oxidizes it gets more of a sheen rather than building up a crust like plain copper. Solder won't want to stick to the chrome too easy, and once it gets oxidized it's even worse. And the oxidized metal will not transfer heat properly to the work.
For splicing new pure copper wires using a temp-controlled iron, it is common to heat the copper joint with the tip until the solder melts and behaves like mercury as it soaks well into the joint. This often fails with antique wires since the old conductor has an oxidation layer on the strands so the solder will not wet them. Things like this are best carefully tinned individually before joining, using additional cleaning and flux if necessary.
Tinning the new tip is the first thing. Lots of users will wait until the iron heats up too much and try to apply a bit of solder after there is already a thin oxidation layer on the chrome tip. I like to get some solder on the point to wet the chrome as soon as it gets hot enough the first time, then unplug the iron and suspend the tip downward with a fraction of a gram of solder obscuring the point as it hardens. It will really dig into that substrate as it solidifies, and in operation the very tip is the part you are going to have to keep constantly wet with fresh solder, and basically use some liquid metal hanging there to transfer heat more effectively to the work than you can from contact with a non-wet tip of the same temperature. The shaft of the tip will become more and more oxidized, and if the point gets like that you might as well sand it down, most likely down to the copper.
Copper tins real easy but it dissolves in the solder much faster than the chrome so the tip will be much more sacrificial as you continue rinsing it with fresh solder when needed so only the freshest non-oxidized solder will come in contact with your work. With new tips or not, properly sized to the work, stuffing a PCB should not require more flux than there is in the core of the solder.
Unplug it when you're not actually using it, they do not really take that long to heat up when you need it again. They just sit there oxidizing otherwise.
Whatever your approach, you need to be comfortable with handling hot liquid metal to some extent.
>In practice? Some tools are just worth spending the money on upfront, inferior tools will often lead to frustration and failure early on.
no, you can't undermine the idea with this trick. For example (grabbing examples from other comments in this thread), while an expensive soldering iron might be much better than a cheap one, there is no way you know before you start whether you're going to be soldering a lot.
I know how to solder, I've soldered a lot since I was about 13, and I can solder just fine with a crappy soldering iron (just like good pizza makers can use a primitive wood fired oven) but after I learned to wire-wrap, I put down my soldering iron almost for good... and does wire-wrapping even exist any more? If I wanted to take it up again, I'd find antique wirewrapping tools before I'd torture myself with soldering anything. All of which is my way to say, if I can't predict how much soldering I'm going to do, then no beginner can predict whether an expensive soldering iron is what they need or not.
Maybe if you went out and geared up with the most expensive technical mountain climbing gear, you could climb Everest on your first try, and you could then make the case that had you bought the cheap stuff you would have been discouraged by frostbite. But that's just not a good plan.
no, you can't undermine the idea with this trick. For example (grabbing examples from other comments in this thread), while an expensive soldering iron might be much better than a cheap one, there is no way you know before you start whether you're going to be soldering a lot.
I know how to solder, I've soldered a lot since I was about 13, and I can solder just fine with a crappy soldering iron (just like good pizza makers can use a primitive wood fired oven) but after I learned to wire-wrap, I put down my soldering iron almost for good... and does wire-wrapping even exist any more? If I wanted to take it up again, I'd find antique wirewrapping tools before I'd torture myself with soldering anything. All of which is my way to say, if I can't predict how much soldering I'm going to do, then no beginner can predict whether an expensive soldering iron is what they need or not.
Maybe if you went out and geared up with the most expensive technical mountain climbing gear, you could climb Everest on your first try, and you could then make the case that had you bought the cheap stuff you would have been discouraged by frostbite. But that's just not a good plan.
The problem with wire-wrapping is that it’s so far from standard practice now (because of the migration to mostly SMD) that it’s not going to be near as easy to prototype with wire-wrapping exclusively as it used to be, and won’t even be easy to find the square-post sockets as when it was a common means of prototyping.
I know so many people who get frustrated with hobby tools and then quit the hobby, when if they would've bought something decent to start off with, might've kept interest. The price differential is a lot less if you buy used, but quality tooling. This tooling is fully depreciated, and you can turn around and sell it for what you paid for it as long as it's still in working order.
To bring it around to programming, imagine trying to debug code in GEdit+Terminal vs having the latest and greatest Jetbrains IDE to help out (ignoring the fact that the community editions are actually pretty functional - let's time travel back 20 years when you had to pay for VS or Borland). One is way more frustrating than the other; one is way more likely to lose motivation.
Or soldering - avoid the cheapest harbor freight iron, and EBay a used Weller for $50+shipping. If you never solder again pass it on and you're out the shipping costs. Weller irons have been and always will be around $50~$60 used.
To bring it around to programming, imagine trying to debug code in GEdit+Terminal vs having the latest and greatest Jetbrains IDE to help out (ignoring the fact that the community editions are actually pretty functional - let's time travel back 20 years when you had to pay for VS or Borland). One is way more frustrating than the other; one is way more likely to lose motivation.
Or soldering - avoid the cheapest harbor freight iron, and EBay a used Weller for $50+shipping. If you never solder again pass it on and you're out the shipping costs. Weller irons have been and always will be around $50~$60 used.
far far more people quit hobbies period, and all those people would have wasted a lot of money gearing up.
There is a vast difference between "went out and geared up with the most expensive" and "spend ~$30 more to go from cheap crap to something baseline competent" (e.g. while the article author says "ultra-cheap" about his linked choice, it's actually more in that range). And nowadays its quite easy to figure out if that's the case for what you are planning to buy, as long as it is a somewhat mainstream topic. And then make a somewhat informed choice.
Irons are also not really getting used up, so if you truly follow the "replace if it breaks" rule you're potentially using crap a loooong time.
Irons are also not really getting used up, so if you truly follow the "replace if it breaks" rule you're potentially using crap a loooong time.
> does wire-wrapping even exist any more?
Yes! I gave it a try a few years ago and I am impressed.
It's faster, denser, and cleaner than soldering wires onto perfboard. Being able to rework by just unwinding a wire is great. I don't use proper wirewrap sockets, but it seems reliable for one-off hobby prototypes.
Yes! I gave it a try a few years ago and I am impressed.
It's faster, denser, and cleaner than soldering wires onto perfboard. Being able to rework by just unwinding a wire is great. I don't use proper wirewrap sockets, but it seems reliable for one-off hobby prototypes.
It’s also great advice for people starting things because most people don’t follow through. There’s a survivorship bias in seeing it as bad advice, I think. Those who stick with a new hobby wish they had bought the good tools to begin with.
I think it’s a good thing to be able to comfortably try out lots of new things. Spending money can make you feel bound to the hobby that you might not enjoy after all.
I think it’s a good thing to be able to comfortably try out lots of new things. Spending money can make you feel bound to the hobby that you might not enjoy after all.
I'd say the truth lies somewhere down the middle.
Get run-of-the-mill tools if you're starting out on something new. Not too cheap because you'll be miserable, but not too expensive because you can't appreciate them.
Once you start doing whatever it is you started doing, if you end up using a tool only once every blue moon, you didn't waste money on a tool you won't appreciate. If you end up using a tool all day and feel annoyed by its limitations, you've learned what aspects to appreciate in that line of tools and you are now better informed to make your next real purchase.
Get run-of-the-mill tools if you're starting out on something new. Not too cheap because you'll be miserable, but not too expensive because you can't appreciate them.
Once you start doing whatever it is you started doing, if you end up using a tool only once every blue moon, you didn't waste money on a tool you won't appreciate. If you end up using a tool all day and feel annoyed by its limitations, you've learned what aspects to appreciate in that line of tools and you are now better informed to make your next real purchase.
I've had a relevant experience with ergonomic chairs. If you buy the cheap chair, it's hard to be sure. Maybe spending more will fix the problem. The expensive chair though... if that doesn't do it then you can be sure that what you actually needed was weights and a yoga mat.
I'm glad I jumped straight to the expensive one, because otherwise I'd have gotten the middle one and then the expensive one.
I'm glad I jumped straight to the expensive one, because otherwise I'd have gotten the middle one and then the expensive one.
Yeah, I generally agree with that rule, but a crap soldering iron is super frustrating and makes you think you suck at soldering.
The article writer talks about his harbor freight iron. Harbor freight is the perfect place to buy a first <insert tool> to see if youre gonna use it enough to justify a higher quality version of said tool. What isn’t all that good of a place to get a first tool is amazon, because its either cheap chinese crap or potentially counterfeit crap.
I disagree, but in the absence of shop-class and summer factory jobs, then yes.
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I think it is an older saying but I don't know who said it first. The version I heard was from scientist and the rule is to first buy the cheapest tool that does the job, then when you need something better, buy the best that you can afford.
For soldiering, I'm still at the first stage.
For soldiering, I'm still at the first stage.
Adding to the chorus - I spent $100 on a Hakko in my 30s and upon using it, immediately felt a sizable pang of regret at how much time I'd wasted with my $20 iron over the years. It felt like I must have been doing something wrong, but as soon as I had a decent iron, it's like all the videos I'd watched suddenly made sense.
Yep, ditto, except my realization came from a JBC encounter at work. I had to learn this meta lesson several times the hard way, because media portrayals lie and I had nobody to tell me different.
Learn Good Tools -> Learn Bad Tools
Learn Bad Tools -> Learn Good Tools
As always, it depends. If I bought the best (or even pretty good) model tool for every hobby I start, I'd be broke. Not every tool needs to be the best.
Same. When I started to take my hobby seriously I was basically replacing a "cheap" soldering iron every couple of months and tips would have lasted me a couple of week.
When I done the maths, it has become quite expensive.
So that's when I decided to buy a Hakko FX-951 and I couldn't have been happier. It makes a huge difference between the cheap ones.
It's been working well for over 3 years now, no issues. Just make sure to use original tips. I had some knock offs and some have burned off the same day I started using them. Original tips last ages.
Don't get me wrong - the cheap ones will work and are great if you need to solder something from time to time. But if you plan to do some serious amount of soldering, don't bother with cheap tools.
When I done the maths, it has become quite expensive.
So that's when I decided to buy a Hakko FX-951 and I couldn't have been happier. It makes a huge difference between the cheap ones.
It's been working well for over 3 years now, no issues. Just make sure to use original tips. I had some knock offs and some have burned off the same day I started using them. Original tips last ages.
Don't get me wrong - the cheap ones will work and are great if you need to solder something from time to time. But if you plan to do some serious amount of soldering, don't bother with cheap tools.
I got lucky and bought a $100 Hakko in... maybe my 3rd year of EE? Early 20s? Like you say, my ability to solder improved dramatically overnight. The first time I went over to my (now) wife's house, I saw she had the same iron sitting on her dining room table for some cables she was fixing. Her and I still have the same pair of irons, they still work flawlessly. We've replaced tips a number of times, but I don't think either of us have ever had to replace the ceramic heater inside. I'm turning 40 this year.
Same here, had a cheapo soldering iron thinking I didn't need much to start, fucked up quite a few outboards I needed to add header pins to. Bought a digital Weller iron and never had a hiccup with my soldering since then.
I spent more destroying parts than I would have just buying the Weller in the first place, lesson learned.
I spent more destroying parts than I would have just buying the Weller in the first place, lesson learned.
I'd say there's a world of difference between a $20 cheap iron and a $50 adjustable temperature station, but once I got to the $50 level I find I can do everything I need to do (including SMD).
yeah $4 crap to $35 Hakko is night and day.
No such thing as $35 Hakko. There are crap $35 Hakko clones, they are BAD. Anything that uses 900 series tip is bad and should be avoided. Cheapest T12 cartridge heater/tip combo DIY kits start at ~$40 on ebay/aliexpress, thats a bare minimum good soldering iron experience. Step above are JBC C245 DIY kits, ~$40 + $20 24V/8A supply and +$10 each for additional tips, you want at least IS and K. no DIY normal station JBC clones start at $200 for something like SUGON T21.
oh man :( "temperature limiting" means there is a triac light dimmer in there to control power output. I havent even considered soldering irons that arent a proper temperature controlled station.
yeah maybe that's why it's cheapest adjustable product, but not very accurate temperature isn't much matter for hobby.
I agree.
I don't personally think it's necessary to go up to €150, but a low-quality entry-level soldering iron will cause a lot of problems, and you'll be blaming yourself for the lack of progress. I learned on a crappy one and always thought I sucked. On university I used one that was alright and it was night and day.
It is important that the soldering iron provides the correct amount of heat, and with entry-level irons it's always a gamble, in my experience.
On the other hand, spending the €150 from the start will save you a lot of time testing irons.
I don't personally think it's necessary to go up to €150, but a low-quality entry-level soldering iron will cause a lot of problems, and you'll be blaming yourself for the lack of progress. I learned on a crappy one and always thought I sucked. On university I used one that was alright and it was night and day.
It is important that the soldering iron provides the correct amount of heat, and with entry-level irons it's always a gamble, in my experience.
On the other hand, spending the €150 from the start will save you a lot of time testing irons.
Those $130-$150 Aixun branded JBC clones on aliexpress make a compelling argument for the price point IMO.
You can start with a little DIY $40 JBC handle + C245 tip + panel controller, add $20 24V/8AA supply and you are good to go.
I 100% agree.
They say "a good craftsman doesn't blame his tools" but when you start out you need good tools.
A non-temperature-controlled soldering iron is a huge impediment to learning because the temperature varies with usage and so its behavior is hard to predict for a new solderer.
Even between temperature-controlled ones there can be a large difference in ability to conduct heat into a part: my Pinecil takes far longer than my Weller (I recommend the WE1010) to heat a joint to the point where solder will melt. (the Pinecil is still nice to have as a mobile soldering setup)
More heating duration results in more part damage: overheated ICs and traces popping off the PCB.
They say "a good craftsman doesn't blame his tools" but when you start out you need good tools.
A non-temperature-controlled soldering iron is a huge impediment to learning because the temperature varies with usage and so its behavior is hard to predict for a new solderer.
Even between temperature-controlled ones there can be a large difference in ability to conduct heat into a part: my Pinecil takes far longer than my Weller (I recommend the WE1010) to heat a joint to the point where solder will melt. (the Pinecil is still nice to have as a mobile soldering setup)
More heating duration results in more part damage: overheated ICs and traces popping off the PCB.
> They say "a good craftsman doesn't blame his tools" but when you start out you need good tools.
Yeah, it's important to realize that saying applied to good craftsmen, not novice craftsmen.
Yeah, it's important to realize that saying applied to good craftsmen, not novice craftsmen.
And intentionally choosing not to blame your tools doesn't transform you into a good craftsman, either.
I'm a pretty good craftsman, and if the angle grinder I'm working needs to be held 'just so' to keep it running, weighs twice what my other ones do, and reeks of ozone - I have absolutely no problem saying 'screw this thing' and throwing in the trash.
never understood that aphorism
never understood that aphorism
I think people take it to mean "A good craftsman should be able to make excellent work even with poor tools"
But maybe it means "a good craftsman should have the experience to know not to work with poor tools, and if they do work with poor tools and the outcome is bad, it's their own fault for not finding better tools, not the tools fault for being poor"
As in, don't blame your tools, you're the one who chose them. And you're always free to choose better tools.
But maybe it means "a good craftsman should have the experience to know not to work with poor tools, and if they do work with poor tools and the outcome is bad, it's their own fault for not finding better tools, not the tools fault for being poor"
As in, don't blame your tools, you're the one who chose them. And you're always free to choose better tools.
I 100% agree, the iron linked in the article is actually OK, but overpriced for what it is. The problem is that if you take the advice as written and go to Home Depot, you will end up with a frustrating piece of garbage and give up the hobby before long.
But fortunately today there are great, cheap tools. The $35 pinecil and T12 clones (as little as $25 if you can wait on shipping) are as good as $150 units from 10 years ago. I have a Hakko 888 and I haven't used it in years because a pinecil in my desk drawer is so much more convenient. It has enough juice for almost anything you'd find linked on hackernews or hackaday, and when I want to use it I just move a usb-c charging cable from my laptop to it for a while.
But fortunately today there are great, cheap tools. The $35 pinecil and T12 clones (as little as $25 if you can wait on shipping) are as good as $150 units from 10 years ago. I have a Hakko 888 and I haven't used it in years because a pinecil in my desk drawer is so much more convenient. It has enough juice for almost anything you'd find linked on hackernews or hackaday, and when I want to use it I just move a usb-c charging cable from my laptop to it for a while.
I'm very happy with the Pinecil. The $25 price is very reasonable for a reliable soldering iron that is open hardware[1] and runs on upgradable free and open source firmware.[2]
[1] Schematics: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil:_How_to_Repair#Schemati...
[2] IronOS: https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS
[1] Schematics: https://wiki.pine64.org/wiki/Pinecil:_How_to_Repair#Schemati...
[2] IronOS: https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS
There are pretty good cheap soldering irons these days too. My $35 Pinecil is pretty fun to use.
I've had a $100 Weller and a $25 Yihua soldering station and found them pretty comparable to each-other.
What's most important is that you get an electronics soldering _station_ of some type and not a basic plumbing/electricians iron that is just a pen on a cord. Those are extremely frustrating for working on a PCB.
What's most important is that you get an electronics soldering _station_ of some type and not a basic plumbing/electricians iron that is just a pen on a cord. Those are extremely frustrating for working on a PCB.
Yeah. I went from various cheap irons to an equally cheap Yihua station, and it's such a quality of life improvement. You don't have to try to fight a too-short cord that's about to pop out of the socket, and the station is a good place to stick a durable rest for the iron that's much heavier than the stupid little stands they sell with pencil irons.
Similar story: went from a series of bad cheap irons to a good cheap iron and it was like night and day.
I still struggle occasionally, but that's when connecting enameled copper to 1.27 mm crenellated edge connectors, and in my book that's a task where "struggling" isn't actually that bad.
I still struggle occasionally, but that's when connecting enameled copper to 1.27 mm crenellated edge connectors, and in my book that's a task where "struggling" isn't actually that bad.
Seconded. I have two Weller TCPs and a while ago decided to buy the Pinecil just as a way to support the folks at Pine64. Well, it turned out it's a really good iron, and I use it along the Wellers without noticing any difference.
Agreed, the Pinecil is amazing. Get it as your first (and probably only) soldering iron.
Cheap isn't bad in this case because of the iron: it gets hot and melts solder. Many people including myself learned on $10 radio shack irons.
What people like adam savage are overlooking in their explanation is details, in this case, cheap irons dont have the selection of tips you need. To most people "cheap soldering iron" is what you get at home depot now which has a tip the width of a pencil, hardly suitable for component soldering.
Also, here is another tip, adjustable temperature is not needed, its a useless feature. You want to get heat into a component and off. You'll fry a component more quickly if you heat it up a million times at a lower temperature setting trying to solder that pulldown resistor to the huge ground plane. In the end, your temperature setting will always be at maximum and you'll just need to hit it quick with the iron: on and off.
Along those lines, a the perfect iron has no temperature setting but can sink alot of heat into a component. Metcals are 40W or 80W in power and are used extensively to solder 0402 and below. The tips come in different heat settings but are really meant for leaded vs. non-leaded solder which flow at different temps. Overkill? no, again, get the heat in, flow the solder and off as quick as possible even when you are soldering to a plane.
What people like adam savage are overlooking in their explanation is details, in this case, cheap irons dont have the selection of tips you need. To most people "cheap soldering iron" is what you get at home depot now which has a tip the width of a pencil, hardly suitable for component soldering.
Also, here is another tip, adjustable temperature is not needed, its a useless feature. You want to get heat into a component and off. You'll fry a component more quickly if you heat it up a million times at a lower temperature setting trying to solder that pulldown resistor to the huge ground plane. In the end, your temperature setting will always be at maximum and you'll just need to hit it quick with the iron: on and off.
Along those lines, a the perfect iron has no temperature setting but can sink alot of heat into a component. Metcals are 40W or 80W in power and are used extensively to solder 0402 and below. The tips come in different heat settings but are really meant for leaded vs. non-leaded solder which flow at different temps. Overkill? no, again, get the heat in, flow the solder and off as quick as possible even when you are soldering to a plane.
Agreed. A cheap 40 watt soldering iron is really meant for touching up plumbing. And a cheap 10 watt one will cool down too quickly.
Electronics are heat sensitive. A reliable solder joint needs to heat quickly, flux stripping off any oxidized layers, everything melted, before the heat goes up the lead and fries the component.
This means you want an iron that is temperature controlled, and heavy enough it has some thermal mass so it doesn't cool quickly.
I've worked with cheap irons after getting used to my $60 temperature controlled iron, and yes you can use them, but it requires more experience, skill and care to do well, which in practice is equivalent to saying less reliable results.
Electronics are heat sensitive. A reliable solder joint needs to heat quickly, flux stripping off any oxidized layers, everything melted, before the heat goes up the lead and fries the component.
This means you want an iron that is temperature controlled, and heavy enough it has some thermal mass so it doesn't cool quickly.
I've worked with cheap irons after getting used to my $60 temperature controlled iron, and yes you can use them, but it requires more experience, skill and care to do well, which in practice is equivalent to saying less reliable results.
They did a poor job of qualifying "cheap". They link to a $50 Harbor Freight unit, which is a proper temperature controlled soldering station. It should certainly be made clear that a $20 wand with no temp control is right out.
What people don’t understand is that Hakko and Weller ARE the low end units. The good units are made by JBC, Pace, and Metcal.
Hakko is also resting on their laurels.
Hakko is what everyone recommends but I have no idea why. It's awful stuff with a design from the 80s. The UI is awful and inscrutable without the manual, the tech is long obsolete.
Get a TS80 or something else that's actually modern -- it has excellent temperature control with a tightly integrated thermocouple like one of the expensive Hakkos (FX951), but costs less and actually displays stuff in readable English. It also has nice features like using an accelerometer to sense its own orientation and turn itself off if you leave it lying around, instead of burning a hole through your desk.
Hakko is what everyone recommends but I have no idea why. It's awful stuff with a design from the 80s. The UI is awful and inscrutable without the manual, the tech is long obsolete.
Get a TS80 or something else that's actually modern -- it has excellent temperature control with a tightly integrated thermocouple like one of the expensive Hakkos (FX951), but costs less and actually displays stuff in readable English. It also has nice features like using an accelerometer to sense its own orientation and turn itself off if you leave it lying around, instead of burning a hole through your desk.
yeah my god. These Chinese soldering stations that can accept JBC cartridges are _absolutely_ the way to go these days. The TS80 is not particularly ergonomic, but the thermal regulation and variety of tips just absolutely eclipse the 888 at a fraction of the cost. I see these units from SUGON and JABE which have the separate base station and JBC-like handpiece. Those seem like the ticket.
Every company besides the chinese companies like Pine, Miniware have the same stratification of soldering equipment.
Hakko 888 is cheap, and has old style carts. Weller has a similar offering. For the $300-range you get the 'proper' thermocouple-integrated tips like the FX951, and Weller likewise has a similar offering. JBC is a premium brand so they don't have low-end stuff, but their pricing isn't too far out of that range ($500ish?).
I agree the Hakko 888 is an outdated recommendation, but it's not really like their company strategy is just outdated. They're business-first, which desires having a full soldering station... not a portable thing like the Miniware/Pine stuff.
Hakko 888 is cheap, and has old style carts. Weller has a similar offering. For the $300-range you get the 'proper' thermocouple-integrated tips like the FX951, and Weller likewise has a similar offering. JBC is a premium brand so they don't have low-end stuff, but their pricing isn't too far out of that range ($500ish?).
I agree the Hakko 888 is an outdated recommendation, but it's not really like their company strategy is just outdated. They're business-first, which desires having a full soldering station... not a portable thing like the Miniware/Pine stuff.
What I mean is that the FX951 is a bad offering in modern times. I mean, a 7 segment display and looking up codes in a manual in 2023? Come on! A proper display is a tiny fraction of the cost of any Hakko product, and would be far more pleasant to use.
They're just resting on their laurels. There's cheaper and less known brands that make far better products because they take advantage of things like decent micro-controllers, displays and accelerometers that have existed for decades now.
They're just resting on their laurels. There's cheaper and less known brands that make far better products because they take advantage of things like decent micro-controllers, displays and accelerometers that have existed for decades now.
You could say they are medium range units (especially since the models usually recommended are not the very lowest end models of those brands), but the gap between a cheapo from the hardware store and a Hakko is like 10x bigger than the gap from Hakko to the highest end model for a professional PCB assembler. Incidentally I work in aerospace and I rarely see anything in lab besides Hakko 800 series, 900 series, or 200 series (rework station).
The new wellers are very good. I have a weller WE101, a Weller Curie-point iron from the mid 2000s and a Metcal 5200. I also have a Metcal rework station at work which was actually cheap for a metcal rework station at just under $10K. The rework station came with almost all of the screws rattling around the preheater and the heating profile menu is so convoluted its barely usable. The new 5200 I have spontaneously goes into a calibration menu that I cant find documentation on.
The older metcals we have a re more rugged although the older 500 series doesn't actually turn off the main power supply when you flip the on/off switch to "off" (look at the schematic online if you don't believe me) only the regulators turn off. The WE101 is rock solid although most people that solder alot don't use temperature adjustment, but I keep it around in case I ever do need it.
Point is, any weirdness with the metcals are made up for with their selection of tips and the heating speed even when soldering components to chassis' or ground planes.
If you can find a used metcal, even if its not working, you can fix them up easily and they are worth the $200 bucks even for a broken one on Ebay.
Point is, any weirdness with the metcals are made up for with their selection of tips and the heating speed even when soldering components to chassis' or ground planes.
If you can find a used metcal, even if its not working, you can fix them up easily and they are worth the $200 bucks even for a broken one on Ebay.
Hakko is not exclusively low end. They’re used in plenty of manufacturing plants. They’re not selling their $30k rework systems to hobbyists.
While we’re at it:
1. Don’t use a wet sponge. If you have a good soldering iron with good tips, you’ll want to use something that looks like a ball of metal shavings instead. It’ll work better, and you won’t oxidize your tips. They’re cheap and last quite a while. Some nicer irons ship with those in addition to or instead of sponges. I haven’t had much luck using these with cheap soldering irons, though, for whatever reason.
2. With a bad soldering iron, you’ll likely find yourself stuck in a cycle of cleaning the tip, tinning the tip, removing oxidation, and, ultimately, replacing the tip. It’s horribly frustrating. If this sounds like your soldering experience, ditch the wet sponge and get a better iron. It’s not you; it’s your tools.
3. Prep is important, especially when doing repairs. Older electronics have a lot of oxidation and are harder to solder. Spend more time on prep, less time on soldering. Don’t try to reuse the solder that’s already on the board.
4. Get Kapton tape (generic name: polyimide tape). Don’t bother getting a combo pack of different sizes; just stick to the half-inch size. Use it copiously. It’s cheap on AliExpress and will save you a lot of trouble. Tape All The Things. Avoid electrical tape; it melts, ruins soldering iron tips, and leaves a nasty residue.
5. Cheap dental explorers and scalers make for great prep tools. They’re cheaper than picks you might get from a hardware store, and they’re usually sharper.
6. Get desoldering wick and flux. The flux core inside the solder often isn’t enough for repair work. Soldering wick is the best way to remove old, stubborn solder. Soak it in flux first if you’re really having trouble. Some people say to get high-quality desoldering wick, but I’ve found soaking cheap wick in flux to be about as effective.
7. I keep isopropyl alcohol in a little squirt bottle and use it to clean off any grime, electrolyte, or whatever else might have accumulated on the PCB.
1. Don’t use a wet sponge. If you have a good soldering iron with good tips, you’ll want to use something that looks like a ball of metal shavings instead. It’ll work better, and you won’t oxidize your tips. They’re cheap and last quite a while. Some nicer irons ship with those in addition to or instead of sponges. I haven’t had much luck using these with cheap soldering irons, though, for whatever reason.
2. With a bad soldering iron, you’ll likely find yourself stuck in a cycle of cleaning the tip, tinning the tip, removing oxidation, and, ultimately, replacing the tip. It’s horribly frustrating. If this sounds like your soldering experience, ditch the wet sponge and get a better iron. It’s not you; it’s your tools.
3. Prep is important, especially when doing repairs. Older electronics have a lot of oxidation and are harder to solder. Spend more time on prep, less time on soldering. Don’t try to reuse the solder that’s already on the board.
4. Get Kapton tape (generic name: polyimide tape). Don’t bother getting a combo pack of different sizes; just stick to the half-inch size. Use it copiously. It’s cheap on AliExpress and will save you a lot of trouble. Tape All The Things. Avoid electrical tape; it melts, ruins soldering iron tips, and leaves a nasty residue.
5. Cheap dental explorers and scalers make for great prep tools. They’re cheaper than picks you might get from a hardware store, and they’re usually sharper.
6. Get desoldering wick and flux. The flux core inside the solder often isn’t enough for repair work. Soldering wick is the best way to remove old, stubborn solder. Soak it in flux first if you’re really having trouble. Some people say to get high-quality desoldering wick, but I’ve found soaking cheap wick in flux to be about as effective.
7. I keep isopropyl alcohol in a little squirt bottle and use it to clean off any grime, electrolyte, or whatever else might have accumulated on the PCB.
Yes, "too cheap" is bad for newbies. You need something at least average or you'll struggle progressing.
Same thing happened when I learned bass. I was unable to achieve anything after 2 years on a shovel. I then tried a squier special edition.. suddenly everything was getting out. Still a newb but the tool gave me direction on where to work to improve with a lot less effort. I was shocked.
Same thing happened when I learned bass. I was unable to achieve anything after 2 years on a shovel. I then tried a squier special edition.. suddenly everything was getting out. Still a newb but the tool gave me direction on where to work to improve with a lot less effort. I was shocked.
I’ve been steering parents on this for years: for beginners (especially kids) the difference between a lifetime passion and another hobby on the pile is usually down to the quality of the instrument + the ability to have early wins (and it’s almost impossible to have early wins on a poorly-made instrument)
Quite true. Once again, balance is key.
> Same thing happened when I learned bass.
I didn't enjoy playing until I swapped out the strings on my Ibanez with some Rotosounds. The tonal change was significant.
I didn't enjoy playing until I swapped out the strings on my Ibanez with some Rotosounds. The tonal change was significant.
Heh, my "shovel" was an ibanez sr400 (not the cheapest, maybe 2nd low cost entry) but I have no idea what strings were on. Ibanez thin neck felt like a win at first but it wasn't enough it seems.
Meh, I began my soldering journey with a modest $20 unit. As I worked with it, I learned to adapt to its limitations. Eventually, I decided to upgrade to a superior unit, which undoubtedly saved me a significant amount of time. However, the initial investment wasn't necessary for me to get started.
In my experience, it's crucial to have a versatile set of soldering tips to handle various scenarios. Attempting to solder small pads with a massive tip can be a daunting task, just as using a minuscule tip to heat up a large pad linked to the ground plane can prove to be ineffective. It's all about having the right tool for the job.
In my experience, it's crucial to have a versatile set of soldering tips to handle various scenarios. Attempting to solder small pads with a massive tip can be a daunting task, just as using a minuscule tip to heat up a large pad linked to the ground plane can prove to be ineffective. It's all about having the right tool for the job.
Same experience. I recently bought a music activated led glasses soldering kit from Amazon. I put it together with an iron kit that was 20 bucks on amazon.
Also I bought a more expensive yuhaun hot air/soldering station (name might not be exact) I used the $20 iron to solder my drone connection and it work perfectly fine with proper technique.
I cannot tell the different in build between the 20 unit and the more expensive station.
Also the brass sponge in the hakko cleaner is nothing more than a chewy boy brass sponge. $1 at your local shady gas station.
Also I bought a more expensive yuhaun hot air/soldering station (name might not be exact) I used the $20 iron to solder my drone connection and it work perfectly fine with proper technique.
I cannot tell the different in build between the 20 unit and the more expensive station.
Also the brass sponge in the hakko cleaner is nothing more than a chewy boy brass sponge. $1 at your local shady gas station.
> iron kit that was 20 bucks on amazon
>yuhaun hot air/soldering station (name might not be exact)
>I cannot tell the different
sadly thats because they are most likely the same crap using 900 series tips
>yuhaun hot air/soldering station (name might not be exact)
>I cannot tell the different
sadly thats because they are most likely the same crap using 900 series tips
I agree, but it makes sense to qualify what features of "good" tools are important for beginners. Temperature control is very important, and you should probably have one even in your first soldering iron. Something like hot air rework, on the other hand, is an advanced feature that you can defer until later.
Another not overly expensive tool I wish I'd known about as a beginner is a heated solder vacuum pump, dispensing with the need to juggle soldering iron and a non-heated vacuum.
Another not overly expensive tool I wish I'd known about as a beginner is a heated solder vacuum pump, dispensing with the need to juggle soldering iron and a non-heated vacuum.
Agreed. Now that the Pinecil exists, the logic of using anything cheaper/worse is absolutely daft. It's $25, there's no excuse for the open-loop garbage anymore.
Completely agree.
The lesson I learned was to not buy generic brand stuff from Amazon. The one I have is dreadful. The temperature dial is meaningless, the grip gets hot with the iron, and the tips that come with it* are absolutely awful. Even at low soldering temperatures they can’t take the heat, and at this point all of them have their cracked, chipped, or have otherwise become completely blunt.
But hey I got a nice generic tool bag full of wires that don’t conduct, insulation tape that doesn’t insulate, tiny screwdrivers, blunt snips, and “lead-free” solder that absolutely has lead in it.
* and it seems to be a fitting that nothing else will fit apart from the rubbish tips that come with a thousand other almost-identical generic soldering irons you can get from Amazon.
The lesson I learned was to not buy generic brand stuff from Amazon. The one I have is dreadful. The temperature dial is meaningless, the grip gets hot with the iron, and the tips that come with it* are absolutely awful. Even at low soldering temperatures they can’t take the heat, and at this point all of them have their cracked, chipped, or have otherwise become completely blunt.
But hey I got a nice generic tool bag full of wires that don’t conduct, insulation tape that doesn’t insulate, tiny screwdrivers, blunt snips, and “lead-free” solder that absolutely has lead in it.
* and it seems to be a fitting that nothing else will fit apart from the rubbish tips that come with a thousand other almost-identical generic soldering irons you can get from Amazon.
I have to agree, when I was 7 or 8 I started out with a "pen" and it sucked, I got a WE-WHS40 for my 10 year birthday, now I'm 37, and.. I'm still using that one.. The transformer inside broke lose after I dropped it.. but.. for everything small-ish, it's whate I still use to this day.. I have a butane powered cheap chinese iron (that will eat away at the tip at each use, and leak itself empty within a week from filling it) for heavier connections.. Those two together cover everything I do.
One thing though.. I disagree with wet sponge, they're annoying and flimsy.. A brass sponge is so much nicer in my opinion.
One thing though.. I disagree with wet sponge, they're annoying and flimsy.. A brass sponge is so much nicer in my opinion.
Same here. I failed at soldering with my cheap iron, and there was nobody to show me what was going wrong. When I got a job assembling circuit boards, they provided a Weller, and suddenly I was able to make perfect joints every time.
Hard Agree. Plus, generalize this to all tasks and sports.
Bad equipment will give you bad habits right from the start. This does not mean that you should buy the top equipment to begin at anything, but it does mean that you should find out from some knowledgeable people what is the minimum you need so you won't be unnecessarily fighting the equipment and learning bad habits (basically hacky workarounds to the equipment's flaws) that you'll later struggle to unlearn.
For some sports or tasks, it's just solid mid-grade equipment, sometimes it's the lower end of the top-grade stuff.
Also, even if funds do not limit you, don't start out with the absolute top-level gear. Better to get a solid start, then grow until your skills let you see which aspects of your mid-grade gear start limiting you, then use that info to buy the top level gear that is actually best suited for you.
Bad equipment will give you bad habits right from the start. This does not mean that you should buy the top equipment to begin at anything, but it does mean that you should find out from some knowledgeable people what is the minimum you need so you won't be unnecessarily fighting the equipment and learning bad habits (basically hacky workarounds to the equipment's flaws) that you'll later struggle to unlearn.
For some sports or tasks, it's just solid mid-grade equipment, sometimes it's the lower end of the top-grade stuff.
Also, even if funds do not limit you, don't start out with the absolute top-level gear. Better to get a solid start, then grow until your skills let you see which aspects of your mid-grade gear start limiting you, then use that info to buy the top level gear that is actually best suited for you.
There's an exception, IMO, for safety critical items in sports.
I've seen so many people show up at climbing walls with cheap carabiners from amazon/etc that aren't rated for climbing, but when you view the listing all the images show climbing.
I've seen so many people show up at climbing walls with cheap carabiners from amazon/etc that aren't rated for climbing, but when you view the listing all the images show climbing.
OMG YES! I wasn't thinking of that aspect.
Absolutely, for safety gear, get only top notch equipment!!!
Safety gear turns many incidents from something like notifying your family or waking up wondering "why can't I remember or see anything" to something like "damn, that's a huge dent in that helmet" or "so much for those goggles".
I've heard participating in a number of sports:
"If you only have a $10 head, then sure, get a $10 helmet ..."
. . . Indeed, I would NEVER buy any safety-related gear from Amazon or AliBaba. I know too much about Chinese manufacturing, focused entirely on profit, and quality is literally a foreign concept to them. , and that doesn't even start to mention the scams, where they not only illustrate climbing, but falsely claim ratings. I work in carbon fiber design & fabrication, and will never even buy a bicycle made in China, even from a top US company.
Just don't do it. Saving a few dozen or hundred dollars or euro is not worth the extra risk.
Absolutely, for safety gear, get only top notch equipment!!!
Safety gear turns many incidents from something like notifying your family or waking up wondering "why can't I remember or see anything" to something like "damn, that's a huge dent in that helmet" or "so much for those goggles".
I've heard participating in a number of sports:
"If you only have a $10 head, then sure, get a $10 helmet ..."
. . . Indeed, I would NEVER buy any safety-related gear from Amazon or AliBaba. I know too much about Chinese manufacturing, focused entirely on profit, and quality is literally a foreign concept to them. , and that doesn't even start to mention the scams, where they not only illustrate climbing, but falsely claim ratings. I work in carbon fiber design & fabrication, and will never even buy a bicycle made in China, even from a top US company.
Just don't do it. Saving a few dozen or hundred dollars or euro is not worth the extra risk.
With helmets, I won't even buy them online - because I can't fit check them, and reputable retailers won't take returns of helmets.
Its cheaper to buy a helmet online, but it is generally better to pay the extra 10-15% and try the fucking thing on in a shop, ensure it fits, etc.
Some manufacturers (Mammut, for example) only really offer one or two sizes, others offer a variety.
Its cheaper to buy a helmet online, but it is generally better to pay the extra 10-15% and try the fucking thing on in a shop, ensure it fits, etc.
Some manufacturers (Mammut, for example) only really offer one or two sizes, others offer a variety.
I'm going to differ with you and a lot of other people echo-ing.
Sure, if you know you'll do a lot of soldering, by all means take the expensive iron. But if you only need to fix an appliance here and there? Go with the basic one.
I've been using the same cheap iron someone gifted me 10 years ago (probably a 30€ one or so), and ... it works. It takes some time to heat up, so I'll just turn it on and go grab a coffee, and it's not super clean or whatnot ... but I fix appliances, I don't care as long as it's fixed.
I'm not trying to get good at soldering either. I'm probably bad, but I don't really care. My appliances get fixed regardless. I really only need a basic level that's used once, perhaps twice a year, and for that, the cheap soldering iron is more than enough.
Sure, if you know you'll do a lot of soldering, by all means take the expensive iron. But if you only need to fix an appliance here and there? Go with the basic one.
I've been using the same cheap iron someone gifted me 10 years ago (probably a 30€ one or so), and ... it works. It takes some time to heat up, so I'll just turn it on and go grab a coffee, and it's not super clean or whatnot ... but I fix appliances, I don't care as long as it's fixed.
I'm not trying to get good at soldering either. I'm probably bad, but I don't really care. My appliances get fixed regardless. I really only need a basic level that's used once, perhaps twice a year, and for that, the cheap soldering iron is more than enough.
I love the $1400+ solder station I use at work. If I could have one at home, I totally would. Solder tweezers and a heated solder vacuum are very useful.
But I am pretty handy with the $130 Hakko I got from adafruit back when I got one for home use. I soldered for a long time with a cheapy $40 Weller I got off of amazon, although I won't go back to it any time soon. Getting a brass sponge and tip tinner really made that thing viable as a daily driver though.
I think that's the difference he was trying to illustrate: if you can't do a basic through-hole board with a 40W pen-style iron from the hardware store, it ain't the tool.
But I am pretty handy with the $130 Hakko I got from adafruit back when I got one for home use. I soldered for a long time with a cheapy $40 Weller I got off of amazon, although I won't go back to it any time soon. Getting a brass sponge and tip tinner really made that thing viable as a daily driver though.
I think that's the difference he was trying to illustrate: if you can't do a basic through-hole board with a 40W pen-style iron from the hardware store, it ain't the tool.
What brand is your station at work?
It's a Weller.
I used to work at a place that had the Weller WXR3003N. $3360 of pure joy. The one I work with now is a Weller WX2021N, which Newark has for $1400.
The tool quality on either is phenomenal, but definitely not necessary for learning on.
Some control over temperature, peak temperature hot enough to melt lead-free solder are really all you need to learn with. I don't want to be a neo-luddite, but you end up learning a lot of tricks with a sub-par iron that I rarely have to use with the high-end tool, but I'm glad I know. For instance, its rare with the high-end tools that I have to glob a bunch of solder onto a joint during rework, but I had to do that all the time with the cheap tool. But now, if I just can't get a joint hot enough to melt, I know that that is an option.
I used to work at a place that had the Weller WXR3003N. $3360 of pure joy. The one I work with now is a Weller WX2021N, which Newark has for $1400.
The tool quality on either is phenomenal, but definitely not necessary for learning on.
Some control over temperature, peak temperature hot enough to melt lead-free solder are really all you need to learn with. I don't want to be a neo-luddite, but you end up learning a lot of tricks with a sub-par iron that I rarely have to use with the high-end tool, but I'm glad I know. For instance, its rare with the high-end tools that I have to glob a bunch of solder onto a joint during rework, but I had to do that all the time with the cheap tool. But now, if I just can't get a joint hot enough to melt, I know that that is an option.
I learned to solder electronic components by age 12, and later I ran an electronics operation where all of my staff could solder proficiently—they had to as bad soldering could easily have jeopardized the functioning of critical equipment. (Back then, anyone interested in electronics had to be up to speed with soldering or they couldn't do the job. Then soldering wasn't seen as a novelty or something unfamiliar as many of these posts indicate, it was taken for granted that everyone knew how to solder proficiently.)
That preface was necessary to indicate how vital hand soldering skills were to electronics and communication industries and to show that what I say next comes from long experience.
Bluntly, you're right to quote that text as not good advice as without certain stipulations it's very misleading; and that your own experience from using better soldering tools is exactly what is to be expected (it's the right advice). In short, don't use cheap crappy soldering equipment even as a beginner (you'll likely develop bad, hard-to-shake habits), rather buy the best you can afford. Moreover, one should not only buy a decent soldering iron with variable temperature control (or tips that work at different temperatures) but also it should support the wattage necessary to keep the tips at the correct temperature for the type of work you anticipate doing.
Same logic applies to your ancillary tools and consumables: use high quality solder with cored flux and always have a range of gauges to hand, always use 'solder wick', and or a decent desoldering tool, have syringes of flux† with correct size dispensing nozzles (flat-end/orifice hypodermic-like needles); and always have plenty of isopropyl alcohol (propan-2-ol) and suitable brushes for removing surplus flux/cleaning up (if it's unavailable then at a pinch use 95% or greater ethanol as a substitute).
I can't go into good soldering techniques here but I'll finish by saying always solder at the correct temperature and always clean (wipe) your iron's tips before use (and don't 'burn' them by leaving them switched on for long periods when not in use).
† There's different types of flux for different jobs—a flux, say, for reflowing IC leads on a PCB will use a different type to that used for soldering old components whose tinning may be slightly oxidized.
That preface was necessary to indicate how vital hand soldering skills were to electronics and communication industries and to show that what I say next comes from long experience.
Bluntly, you're right to quote that text as not good advice as without certain stipulations it's very misleading; and that your own experience from using better soldering tools is exactly what is to be expected (it's the right advice). In short, don't use cheap crappy soldering equipment even as a beginner (you'll likely develop bad, hard-to-shake habits), rather buy the best you can afford. Moreover, one should not only buy a decent soldering iron with variable temperature control (or tips that work at different temperatures) but also it should support the wattage necessary to keep the tips at the correct temperature for the type of work you anticipate doing.
Same logic applies to your ancillary tools and consumables: use high quality solder with cored flux and always have a range of gauges to hand, always use 'solder wick', and or a decent desoldering tool, have syringes of flux† with correct size dispensing nozzles (flat-end/orifice hypodermic-like needles); and always have plenty of isopropyl alcohol (propan-2-ol) and suitable brushes for removing surplus flux/cleaning up (if it's unavailable then at a pinch use 95% or greater ethanol as a substitute).
I can't go into good soldering techniques here but I'll finish by saying always solder at the correct temperature and always clean (wipe) your iron's tips before use (and don't 'burn' them by leaving them switched on for long periods when not in use).
† There's different types of flux for different jobs—a flux, say, for reflowing IC leads on a PCB will use a different type to that used for soldering old components whose tinning may be slightly oxidized.
[deleted]
Totally agree. My first soldering iron was a cheap ($20) Chinese POS that simply couldn't get hot enough. Every time, I'd end up with crusty misshapen blocks because the solder would partially solidify before it even came off the tip of the iron. Got fed up and bought a moderately expensive iron, and the difference was night and day.
There's no need to splurge on a high-end soldering iron straight away, but definitely don't get the cheapest one you can find.
There's no need to splurge on a high-end soldering iron straight away, but definitely don't get the cheapest one you can find.
Look if I can't flash my own IronOS firmware unto my USB-C powered TS100 iron what is even the point? What am I, a farmer?
https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS
I didn't spend hours watching YouTube reviews comparing soldering irons for nothing. This is $70 well spent.
In case anybody thinks I am being sarcastic, I am actually not. Look into it, worth it.
https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS
I didn't spend hours watching YouTube reviews comparing soldering irons for nothing. This is $70 well spent.
In case anybody thinks I am being sarcastic, I am actually not. Look into it, worth it.
I was thinking this same thing - get a good T100-ish iron (preferably a Pinecil[0]), a 60W USB3 power supply, some good 60/40 solder, and you're at least 90% of the way to a real professional soldering station.
[0] https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-solde...
[0] https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-solde...
I wish I'd known this years ago. When I was about 16, I tried my hand at soldering. I had little idea of what I was doing but really tried for several weeks. Nothing worked. I thought all this time it was just me.
I mean, it could just be me, but I haven't picked up a soldering iron for many years because of that experience. I might invest good iron and give it a shot again.
I mean, it could just be me, but I haven't picked up a soldering iron for many years because of that experience. I might invest good iron and give it a shot again.
You ought to. A HAKKO (and decent, thin solder) made all the difference in the world when I started back into the hobby.
Espresso machines are the same way. I worked for years at my steaming on a cheap machine, never quite getting it right. Then I get a La Marzocco and steaming is easy, barely any technique to it. Kind of demoralizing. Guitar tone is the same, at least for overdriven guitar, and still to some extent for clean.
In this case of soldering I agree, as the tool really does make it easier. Generally for most hobbies I tell people to buy the "cheapest" they can find and if they use it until it breaks then buy the most expensive one you can afford.
I think this might work for some subset of hobbies (can't think of any), but anything that requires some learning or training to improve, crappy tools will hold your progress back and might cause you to drop out. From ping pong balls to guitars...
For working on cars, the standard advice is to buy a basic wrench and socket set from harbour freight, any specialty (non electrical) tools from there as you need them, and then upgrade the few things that end up not being adequate.
It's kind of interesting how handling this well varies from hobby to hobby and is tricky to balance from person to person. There's the argument that you don't want to spend too much until you get a feel for how interested you are but there's also the effect of quality of tools on enjoyment/annoyance/learning curve that has a big effect on interest a lot of the time. I guess, you're always just gonna wanna google around to get a better idea, but sometimes there's not great googleable info.
this is fantastic advice for creative outlets, cottage crafts, and low-impact outdoor activities. but it's dangerous in hobbies like soldering or sports, where tools can seriously impact the safety of the operator, or render the operator's work dysfunctional
Price isn't the main differentiator, it's temperature control and an iron that isn't so big it's hard to maneuver.
$20 is enough to buy a decent temperature-controlled iron these days (mainly clones based on the Hakko 936 design).
$20 is enough to buy a decent temperature-controlled iron these days (mainly clones based on the Hakko 936 design).
[deleted]
Agreed. There is a huge difference learning to solder SMDs with a Metcal or Thermaltronics system vs a Weller or Hakko system.
I cry for all the time I wasted soldering before finally sucking it up and getting a Metcal.
I cry for all the time I wasted soldering before finally sucking it up and getting a Metcal.
Definitely skip the hardware store soldering irons, but that doesn't mean you have to spend a ton. I got a knockoff Hakko 936 for like $20 and I have no complaints.
As much as I love metcals, we had a $100 Aoyue hot-air station in graduate school that probably soldered on 500+ custom ASICs over its lifespan. The thing with prototyping chips (as with anything else) is you don't want to insert a variable (bad solder joints) into something that might have other unknown variables (the chip). The $100 hot air station broke somewhere around chip #400 and we just kept cobbling it back together. I think its still working to this day.
I've not done much soldering because the cheap soldering iron I bought to do occasional fixes can't actually melt solder.
I learned to solder electronic components together by age 12
If I may, I would complete a few points in the article.
Soldering iron:
Get a decent one. That doesn't mean you must throw a boatload of money, just avoid the crappy ones, which almost always are the cheaper ones. A notable exception is the Pinecil by Pine64.org, which is truly a great iron despite being cheap. Pinecil aside, you can snatch a used Weller or Hakko on ebay without spending too much, but beware of the many fakes. I had for a while a Hakko clone, and although well built, it was garbage: the heater-tip contact makes all the difference, and that was its weak point.
Solder:
Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers.
Sponge:
Very useful, but don't forget to buy one that is suitable for soldering. A kitchen/bathroom one made of synthetic material will melt as soon as you put the heated tip on it. In the meantime, a damp strip of cotton cloth rolled into a coffee cup can be similarly effective.
Work surface:
I don't use a specific one, so don't have direct experience, however I doubt one could use a rubber doormat with heated tips. A oven silicone mat would probably be safer, but again, I never used them.
Other items the article doesn't cover:
-Flux. You will need it. No matter if the solder already contains rosin flux, having a way to put some extra flux on the surface to be soldered will help immensely.
-Brass wool sponge. Some see it as complementary to the wet sponge, but I find having it handy because it is best at removing tin residuals from the tip, while the wet one helps cleaning it.
-Solder wick. Very useful to remove tin in excess from old joints, therefore also for desoldering parts. Buy a couple rolls of different sizes and practice using it.
-Sal Ammoniac. An almost forgotten item which can make a tip shine almost like new. It's cheap and a single tablet will last years.
Oh, and practice, practice, practice.
Soldering iron:
Get a decent one. That doesn't mean you must throw a boatload of money, just avoid the crappy ones, which almost always are the cheaper ones. A notable exception is the Pinecil by Pine64.org, which is truly a great iron despite being cheap. Pinecil aside, you can snatch a used Weller or Hakko on ebay without spending too much, but beware of the many fakes. I had for a while a Hakko clone, and although well built, it was garbage: the heater-tip contact makes all the difference, and that was its weak point.
Solder:
Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers.
Sponge:
Very useful, but don't forget to buy one that is suitable for soldering. A kitchen/bathroom one made of synthetic material will melt as soon as you put the heated tip on it. In the meantime, a damp strip of cotton cloth rolled into a coffee cup can be similarly effective.
Work surface:
I don't use a specific one, so don't have direct experience, however I doubt one could use a rubber doormat with heated tips. A oven silicone mat would probably be safer, but again, I never used them.
Other items the article doesn't cover:
-Flux. You will need it. No matter if the solder already contains rosin flux, having a way to put some extra flux on the surface to be soldered will help immensely.
-Brass wool sponge. Some see it as complementary to the wet sponge, but I find having it handy because it is best at removing tin residuals from the tip, while the wet one helps cleaning it.
-Solder wick. Very useful to remove tin in excess from old joints, therefore also for desoldering parts. Buy a couple rolls of different sizes and practice using it.
-Sal Ammoniac. An almost forgotten item which can make a tip shine almost like new. It's cheap and a single tablet will last years.
Oh, and practice, practice, practice.
> A notable exception is the Pinecil by Pine64.org, which is truly a great iron despite being cheap.
I have a Pinecil and I like it, but I feel that it's not a good recommendation for a first soldering iron. The UI may be confusing for some, it doesn't come with a power supply, the tips are fairly expensive, and there's no place to rest the iron while using it. Instead, I would tell a newbie to get a middle-of-the-road temperature-controlled soldering station. They don't cost that much more and are generally ready to go out of the box.
I would certainly recommend the Pinecil as a second soldering iron, though.
I have a Pinecil and I like it, but I feel that it's not a good recommendation for a first soldering iron. The UI may be confusing for some, it doesn't come with a power supply, the tips are fairly expensive, and there's no place to rest the iron while using it. Instead, I would tell a newbie to get a middle-of-the-road temperature-controlled soldering station. They don't cost that much more and are generally ready to go out of the box.
I would certainly recommend the Pinecil as a second soldering iron, though.
The Pinecil was the first iron I really used extensively and I think it's fine for a beginner. Plug it in, press plus, it heats up. Press plus more if you want to set it hotter, minus to go back down after pressing plus. It can use any USB-C PD power supply, so many will have one from a phone or laptop, you can even run it off a power bank if you want. The default tip is very good and my most-used of all the tips (built a whole keyboard kit using it as my first project), even after getting more. If you set the iron on its side on a flat surface, the tip does not touch the table. This can be used in a pinch, but also Pine64 sells little sponge holders with the positionable metal bar to rest on, or if you get your own brass sponge it should have the same.
I got a KSGER T-12, and it's pretty good. I watched a few videos before buying, and it is able to put out a lot of heat, and it works with a variety of tips. I only wish that it was easier to change the tips.
There is no such thing as too much flux :)
I would also recommend wearing protective glasses not to splash stuff on your eyes.
I would also recommend wearing protective glasses not to splash stuff on your eyes.
Oh, there definitely is such a thing as too much flux. I have some active flux that works really well on old and oxidized boards, but it's a pain to clean. I try to use only the amount necessary to do the job. No-clean flux still needs to be cleaned, but it's a lot easier to clean up, and with that I will say that I agree with your statement, conditionally. Having a swimming pool of flux or more flux than solder is not good.
Will it affect the connection in any way from a signal integrity perspective?
> Get leaded solder when possible.
I've had good results with SnBi soldering wire - it has low melting temperature and you don't have to be so careful with hand washing (I think ;) I got mine from LCSC shipped from China, but it seems [0] you can now get it in US.
[0] https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mechanic-Lead-Free-Low-Temperatur...
I've had good results with SnBi soldering wire - it has low melting temperature and you don't have to be so careful with hand washing (I think ;) I got mine from LCSC shipped from China, but it seems [0] you can now get it in US.
[0] https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mechanic-Lead-Free-Low-Temperatur...
> Get leaded solder when possible. It's easier to use and joints are a lot less subject to tin whiskers.
If you do use leaded solder, be extra-sure to wash your hands after soldering.
If you do use leaded solder, be extra-sure to wash your hands after soldering.
I know it's supposed to be much better, but the idea of vaporizing lead anywhere remotely near where kids may someday play is pretty intimidating. Are there any useable lead free solders?
The smoke you see while working with solder is from the flux, not the lead. Lead doesn't vaporize at the temperatures soldering exposes it to.
Just don't put the solder in your mouth and wash your hands.
Here is one stack exchange answer that seems well researched to me: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/19086
I also did a lot of googling on the subject recently when I decided I wanted to try out Stained glass, but wasn't sure what precautions I should take. I've come to the personal conclusion to not stress about the lead in solder.
Just don't put the solder in your mouth and wash your hands.
Here is one stack exchange answer that seems well researched to me: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/19086
I also did a lot of googling on the subject recently when I decided I wanted to try out Stained glass, but wasn't sure what precautions I should take. I've come to the personal conclusion to not stress about the lead in solder.
The lead does not vaporize at soldering temperatures. The fumes are just flux. Will irritate eyes and airway, but won't really hurt you. However do wash your hands, and if you are de-soldering with a pump you probably want to vacuum wipe surfaces with a damp cloth, as you can end up creating some lead dust in the process.
Lead can't really vaporize at any temperature used in soldering. There are other fumes (mostly from flux) to be worried about, and you have to make sure that solder leftovers are well disposed of (especially when desoldering). But lead free is definitely usable now, though I only use it for solder paste.
Aaah, this is really not a good beginner's guide to soldering! Cranking up to max temperature might work a lot of the time but runs the risk of frying ICs and causing PCB traces to come off. Also using a wet sponge can cause the tips to rust. It's much better to clean them with a brass "sponge" leaving the tip tinned to protect it. Finally the real key to easy soldering is solder flux (and leaded solder if you're allowed).
A wet sponge doesn't cause rust, it's occasionally blamed for cracking plating when you use a high temperature.
If you use a moderate temperature (650°F/340°C) it's a gentler way to clean flux residue off the tip.
Brass wool I reserve for scrubbing oxidation off the tip, but this eventually wears through the plating so I don't do this often.
Leaded solder is both toxic and completely unnecessary for hobbyist use. I like SAC305 but SN99.7 works well too—the key is a good quality flux core.
No-clean flux is convenient but if you do want to clean it, it's gummy and makes a mess. "Yes-clean" flux leaves conductive residue so it must be cleaned, but it is easier to clean.
As far as temperature goes, the better your iron is at transferring heat, the lower the tip temperature you can use, which improves tip life and, as you mention, reduces the chance of part damage.
I am a lead dev on an open-source hardware project (PhobGCC) and I've seen damage caused by bad soldering irons time and time again. Don't cheap out. I recommend a Weller WE1010.
If you use a moderate temperature (650°F/340°C) it's a gentler way to clean flux residue off the tip.
Brass wool I reserve for scrubbing oxidation off the tip, but this eventually wears through the plating so I don't do this often.
Leaded solder is both toxic and completely unnecessary for hobbyist use. I like SAC305 but SN99.7 works well too—the key is a good quality flux core.
No-clean flux is convenient but if you do want to clean it, it's gummy and makes a mess. "Yes-clean" flux leaves conductive residue so it must be cleaned, but it is easier to clean.
As far as temperature goes, the better your iron is at transferring heat, the lower the tip temperature you can use, which improves tip life and, as you mention, reduces the chance of part damage.
I am a lead dev on an open-source hardware project (PhobGCC) and I've seen damage caused by bad soldering irons time and time again. Don't cheap out. I recommend a Weller WE1010.
> Brass wool I reserve for scrubbing oxidation off the tip, but this eventually wears through the plating so I don't do this often.
I am cleaning my JBC tips with brass for the past 5 years of intense use and can't really tell a difference.
I am cleaning my JBC tips with brass for the past 5 years of intense use and can't really tell a difference.
Seconding this. Have been using the same JBC tips for 4 years with great success.
When using the brass wool, I tend to lightly rest the tip in a clean area. Maybe sometimes I will rotate it a few times, but I never use pressure or make wiping or scrubbing motions. I'm not sure if it really matters though (ie. how do the hardness of the tip plating and the brass compare?).
When using the brass wool, I tend to lightly rest the tip in a clean area. Maybe sometimes I will rotate it a few times, but I never use pressure or make wiping or scrubbing motions. I'm not sure if it really matters though (ie. how do the hardness of the tip plating and the brass compare?).
Sponges - if you have a decent iron, you should be using a clean, damp-not-wet, sulfur-free, cellulose sponge. This means: buy the type sold for use with a soldering iron, squeeze the water out of it after wetting it, and switch to a fresh one when it gets cruddy. I have never had an issue.
Flux - hobbyists either try to use 50-year-old parts with totally oxidized plating and no flux, or they use too much flux. New parts should not need more flux than you have in your flux-core solder or in your paste.
The next thing that happens after people discover flux is that they want to clean it off, and 99% of the time, hobbyists should not be cleaning flux. If you cannot measure the reason for cleaning your board, leave it alone. The manufacturers will tell you that modern RA and RMA type fluxes do not require cleaning for "most applications" - and "most applications" almost certainly means you.
No-clean flux should be called "never-clean" for the reason you outline. You shouldn't try to clean it, and it will never get as clean as you'd like if you do. I like no-clean for stuff I'm going to show to other people. You will almost certainly use no-clean in production if you go to production.
Water-clean is lovely stuff but it's very unforgiving. It will corrode if not cleaned, and you have to plan to wash your board by using sealed parts or adding water-sensitive parts afterward. You have to be careful with tip temperature too or it will destroy your tips. I have a spool of 63/37 water-clean I've used maybe twice - the boards sparkled but it was just too much trouble.
Flux - hobbyists either try to use 50-year-old parts with totally oxidized plating and no flux, or they use too much flux. New parts should not need more flux than you have in your flux-core solder or in your paste.
The next thing that happens after people discover flux is that they want to clean it off, and 99% of the time, hobbyists should not be cleaning flux. If you cannot measure the reason for cleaning your board, leave it alone. The manufacturers will tell you that modern RA and RMA type fluxes do not require cleaning for "most applications" - and "most applications" almost certainly means you.
No-clean flux should be called "never-clean" for the reason you outline. You shouldn't try to clean it, and it will never get as clean as you'd like if you do. I like no-clean for stuff I'm going to show to other people. You will almost certainly use no-clean in production if you go to production.
Water-clean is lovely stuff but it's very unforgiving. It will corrode if not cleaned, and you have to plan to wash your board by using sealed parts or adding water-sensitive parts afterward. You have to be careful with tip temperature too or it will destroy your tips. I have a spool of 63/37 water-clean I've used maybe twice - the boards sparkled but it was just too much trouble.
"Yes-clean" flux has absolutely been the cause of controller malfunctions due to its conductivity for makers of my controller project. It needs to be removed.
But yes, no-clean flux is best left where it is.
But yes, no-clean flux is best left where it is.
Could be so, and it can depend on the flux and the processing, but it's almost never the flux. From a 10,000 ft look at your project, I wouldn't expect it to need the high isolation or high impedances that would drive a serious cleanliness spec. You could have other issues that a temperature and humidity test would uncover with no-clean, for example. We can discuss them if you'd like.
Depends on what you mean by "yes-clean" though - "water-clean" OA flux must absolutely be cleaned - it can start to corrode overnight even.
Depends on what you mean by "yes-clean" though - "water-clean" OA flux must absolutely be cleaned - it can start to corrode overnight even.
The "yes-clean" flux I'm talking about is high-solids rosin flux that leaves a conductive residue. The conductivity can definitely cause a circuit to fail.
Makers come to our discord chat, asking why their builds aren't working and post a pictures.
I suggest cleaning the flux off, and they start functioning.
As an aside:
My current solder brand (Chip Quik) has a "no-clean water-soluble" flux that I'm curious about. Surely that's not going to be as corrosive as the flux you're talking about. (I probably wouldn't use it myself because it needs 140°F water to dissolve)
Makers come to our discord chat, asking why their builds aren't working and post a pictures.
I suggest cleaning the flux off, and they start functioning.
As an aside:
My current solder brand (Chip Quik) has a "no-clean water-soluble" flux that I'm curious about. Surely that's not going to be as corrosive as the flux you're talking about. (I probably wouldn't use it myself because it needs 140°F water to dissolve)
Without answering how much conductivity you had, how it caused the circuit to fail, what part of your circuit failed, and in what way, you haven't really narrowed it down to the flux, even if cleaning helped. There are a number of more likely root causes of the kind of issue you describe. I can make time for going into that if you're interested.
"No-clean water soluble" is news to me. Don't know if I'd trust that in a humid environment.
"No-clean water soluble" is news to me. Don't know if I'd trust that in a humid environment.
> I recommend a Weller WE1010.
My budget is more in the $20 - $25 range. Cheap adjustable-temp soldering irons are available for under $4 [0], surely there is some middle ground between those irons and the $115 unit you suggest?
[0] https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005058271470.html?
My budget is more in the $20 - $25 range. Cheap adjustable-temp soldering irons are available for under $4 [0], surely there is some middle ground between those irons and the $115 unit you suggest?
[0] https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005058271470.html?
The problem is that bad soldering irons are infuriating. I started with super cheap one and it didn't work at all. I upgraded to $20 adjustable one that worked for a while but is inconsistent. I thought it was my bad technique until this thread but sounds like it is the quality.
The $25 Pinecil sounds good and is probably your best option. I may go for soldering station since I can afford it.
The $25 Pinecil sounds good and is probably your best option. I may go for soldering station since I can afford it.
Thanks. The Pinecil comes out to $60 with the $35 shipping to my corner of the world. )) Other than that it looks terrific. If I'm ever in the US or Europe and I can receive mail, I'll try to order one.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Those cheap "adjustable temperature" irons are "adjustable power" with no actual temperature feedback control.
The middle ground is the Pinecil, which is $25 but needs a laptop power supply.
It's… okay. It has less than half the heat transfer rate compared to the Weller, but it at least won't burn pads off your PCB.
The middle ground is the Pinecil, which is $25 but needs a laptop power supply.
It's… okay. It has less than half the heat transfer rate compared to the Weller, but it at least won't burn pads off your PCB.
Yes, I actually do have an iron similar to the one I posted. I like it, but I typically leave it at its highest temperature (which, as you state, just means full power).
I use leaded solder and have for years but I’d love to replace it with something less toxic. The trouble is that lead-free solders I’ve tried require high temp and flow very differently from leaded solder.
Does SAC305 (for example) flow and cool in a similar way to good old 63/37?
Does SAC305 (for example) flow and cool in a similar way to good old 63/37?
SAC305 melts at a slightly higher temperature but has a lower melted viscosity than Sn63.
So it takes a smidge longer to heat a joint than for leaded, but you don't need to hold the heat there as long once it flows.
It's slightly not eutectic, though, so you must immobilize parts as the joint solidifies.
Sn99.7 is eutectic but has a still higher melting point.
I find SAC305 to solder well at 340°C/650°F.
So it takes a smidge longer to heat a joint than for leaded, but you don't need to hold the heat there as long once it flows.
It's slightly not eutectic, though, so you must immobilize parts as the joint solidifies.
Sn99.7 is eutectic but has a still higher melting point.
I find SAC305 to solder well at 340°C/650°F.
340c would be a pretty high setting for most casual use... Good chance you'll ruin a board like that. Modern solder is pretty easy to work with around 250c and the risk of overheating the board is a lot lower. Unless you're soldering giant connectors there's no reason to tell a beginner to crank it over 300c.
No mention of solder suckers or tinning either. Mention of how to reflow connections using a heat gun is a simpler alternative to an iron for fixing some problems too.
Doesn't water from wet sponge evaporate soon?
I used to "suck" at soldering, until one day I was recommended a Louis Rossmann video by Youtube and decided to watch it. Once I saw how much flux he used, I started to use more flux and as it turns out, that was my problem.
That is my problem with this article. Flux is only superficially in a sentence. So my tip to beginners: Cleaning flux is way easier than struggling to solder with little/no flux.
That is my problem with this article. Flux is only superficially in a sentence. So my tip to beginners: Cleaning flux is way easier than struggling to solder with little/no flux.
learning that way will also have you relying on flux for through-holes, though. you can get really good without flux, just takes some tip cleaner and a brass cleaning pad, and you'll end up wasting less on the smd jobs
>learning that way will also have you relying on flux for through-holes, though
Is that really a problem, especially for a beginner? I can understand if you are soldering a lot, you will be faster without the need to constantly add flux and save resources but at that point, I think the repetition will let you get better over time anyway.
Is that really a problem, especially for a beginner? I can understand if you are soldering a lot, you will be faster without the need to constantly add flux and save resources but at that point, I think the repetition will let you get better over time anyway.
Hmm. Soldering since before I could talk, then professionally for a couple decades, and I never used flux once. It's in the solder.
You can solder carefully without adding flux. Or you add flux and it erases all mistakes before you make them. There's no need to make it more challenging when flux is available.
Do you have a link to the video by any chance?
Not really, it was around spring 2018. He was joking about how one can never have enough flux.
As a very occasional solderer, one thing I don't see written about much in beginner guides is ventilation.
With lead-based solder, I'm never sure what I should be doing, especially in a small room/workshop. Keeping windows open or having good airflow isn't always possible.
Things like: should I avoid leaning over or breathing in while leaning over something I'm soldering? Do I need to air the room afterwards? Would a small carbon fume extractor help? Anything to worry about from other chemicals in lead-free solder? Or is even lead harmless enough for someone that's not soldering ever day?
With lead-based solder, I'm never sure what I should be doing, especially in a small room/workshop. Keeping windows open or having good airflow isn't always possible.
Things like: should I avoid leaning over or breathing in while leaning over something I'm soldering? Do I need to air the room afterwards? Would a small carbon fume extractor help? Anything to worry about from other chemicals in lead-free solder? Or is even lead harmless enough for someone that's not soldering ever day?
The fumes are from flux (usually rosin), not lead. They are mostly safe, just breathe out while you're soldering. Soldering should hardly leave a bad smell. If the room does smell bad after soldering, you might be accidentally burning something else, like plastic insulation.
Lead does not vaporize at the temperatures being soldered, there is basically zero risk of breathing it in.
However, when soldering you will end up with little balls and blobs of solder as waste. Don't just throw them in the trash. These should be collected and disposed of properly, as hazardous waste so that they don't end up in a landfill polluting your grandkids' water supply.
However, when soldering you will end up with little balls and blobs of solder as waste. Don't just throw them in the trash. These should be collected and disposed of properly, as hazardous waste so that they don't end up in a landfill polluting your grandkids' water supply.
Some tips for soldering beginners that helped me when I first started building FPV drones.
-Get good solder. Kester 63/37 is my favorite. Stay away from lead-free solder, it's harder to work with. Soldering temperatures are too low to vaporize lead, just wash your hands after handling leaded solder.
-Buy good flux. If you have a problem soldering, flux will probably fix it. No, the flux inside the solder wire is not enough.
-Apply flux on the pad, heat the pad, lay your wire on the pad. While applying heat to the pad with your soldering iron, start feeding the solder onto the point where your pad and wire meets. It should start melting immediately and create a shiny connection. If it's not melting immediately, your soldering iron might be too cold. I like 380-420 range. Higher the iron temperature, quicker you should be. Don't rest the soldering iron for a prolonged time on the pad, it will burn it. Nothing on a flight controller (including XT-60 power connections) require more than a couple of seconds to heat up.
On a side note, if you're not going for a specific build, don't buy rebranded brushless motors with pilot names on them. The same motor usually can be found cheaper, with the factory branding. Same goes for solder. TBS doesn't manufacture solder, they just probably rebrand Kester or some other similar brands with a margin. Joshua Bardwell's FPV shopping list should mention every one of those brands so you can look it up.
Also as an additional step, consider conformal coating after you're done with all your connections.
On a side note, if you're not going for a specific build, don't buy rebranded brushless motors with pilot names on them. The same motor usually can be found cheaper, with the factory branding. Same goes for solder. TBS doesn't manufacture solder, they just probably rebrand Kester or some other similar brands with a margin. Joshua Bardwell's FPV shopping list should mention every one of those brands so you can look it up.
Also as an additional step, consider conformal coating after you're done with all your connections.
[deleted]
The most important thing: Put the heat where you want the solder to flow to, not where it's starting from.
This also applies to soldering/brazing copper pipes.
This also applies to soldering/brazing copper pipes.
I did some electronic soldering in my teens and in college. I've occasionally done it since then to do minor repairs like replace part of a mouse I liked when it wore out after years of clicking. This past week I discovered that one of the spigots on the outside of my house had failed over the winter. The spigot (sorry, "spillcock") and the piece it screwed into had both been damaged by ice and caused a leak inside the wall. I took a picture of the joint and accompanying piping and sent it to my dad for advice. He was pretty horrified at the quality of the surrounding joints, so he strongly suggested replacing more than just the two parts that were causing the leak.
I went out and bought some lead-free solder and flux, but didn't think to look up anything about flux or solder quality. I was having trouble getting a joint I was happy with, until I finally gave in and asked my neighbor (a plumber) for some advice. He give me some very useful advice (give the excess flux a wipe once it starts bubbling, start applying solder at the bottom to let steam escape out the top of the joint and then work your way up, among others). He also gave me his favorite (lead-free) solder and flux to use. The flux looked really grody, and unsurprisingly made a huge difference in how well everything flowed. In the end, I replaced the suspicious section with my much less janky piece and it's now dry as a bone.
I went out and bought some lead-free solder and flux, but didn't think to look up anything about flux or solder quality. I was having trouble getting a joint I was happy with, until I finally gave in and asked my neighbor (a plumber) for some advice. He give me some very useful advice (give the excess flux a wipe once it starts bubbling, start applying solder at the bottom to let steam escape out the top of the joint and then work your way up, among others). He also gave me his favorite (lead-free) solder and flux to use. The flux looked really grody, and unsurprisingly made a huge difference in how well everything flowed. In the end, I replaced the suspicious section with my much less janky piece and it's now dry as a bone.
To add to that, you add the solder to the heated part and it will flow into the point you're soldering. Don't try to transfer it from the iron or paste it on the spot semi-melted.
If you ever get the chance, solder under a (say 40x) stereo microscope. The soldering station at my internship was this kind of setup and it literally gave me a whole new perspective on soldering. I got to see exactly how the flux and solder flow, how the heat spreads through the material and at what moment the heat was too high that it would melt or release the tiniest coper traces on the board. Also how well solder sticks and flows once everything is properly heated.
It's fun, too! Even through-hole, where you really don't need a 'scope, is oddly satisfying when you can see every detail.
see also whitequark's soldering mistakes troubleshooting guide:
- beginner: not using flux
- intermediate: not using enough flux
- advanced: not using the right flux
and visually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfIwHuGzUEk
- beginner: not using flux
- intermediate: not using enough flux
- advanced: not using the right flux
and visually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfIwHuGzUEk
I don't know, I use lead-free solder with a resin core and my joint looks much cleaner than most I see on /r/ErgoMechKeyboards , where people generally apply liberal amounts of flux.
Great work and great choice of flux-cored solder wire!
Very satisfying to watch. Good soldering job feels so good!
After seeing the video, I wonder if someone could recommend some flux like the one shown there, the one that looks like a yellow-orange paste. Just so I don't end up "not using the right flux" ;)
My $0.02 is to choose name-brand solder wire (e.g. Kester/Multicore/ChipQuik) with "RA" or "RMA" flux core. That will flow well and be gentle on your tips.
The "not right" flux is often a nasty no-clean flux core in solder wire. Many don't flow well and leave a horrid residue on your tips that's hard to remove. (The bad reputation of lead-free solder seems to come not from the alloy but from solder wire with lousy choice of flux core.)
The "not enough" flux is often reworking something where the flux has been vaporized leaving only the solder. Then you need to add some new flux like in the video. The gold standard seems to be Amtech tacky fluxes like https://www.amazon.com/Amtech-Solder-Flux-NC-559-V2-TF-16150
The "not right" flux is often a nasty no-clean flux core in solder wire. Many don't flow well and leave a horrid residue on your tips that's hard to remove. (The bad reputation of lead-free solder seems to come not from the alloy but from solder wire with lousy choice of flux core.)
The "not enough" flux is often reworking something where the flux has been vaporized leaving only the solder. Then you need to add some new flux like in the video. The gold standard seems to be Amtech tacky fluxes like https://www.amazon.com/Amtech-Solder-Flux-NC-559-V2-TF-16150
broken amazon page
better amtech solder flux nc-559
https://www.amazon.com/Amtech-Solder-Flux-NC-559-V2-TF-16150...
better amtech solder flux nc-559
https://www.amazon.com/Amtech-Solder-Flux-NC-559-V2-TF-16150...
> Much like the ability to drive a car with a manual transmission, read a map, or write a check, Gen Z is learning less and less about how to work with their hands—and it’s time for that to change.
If only there way some way to obtain this ancient knowledge. Perhaps a video repository of sorts. But I’m sure the hand wringing about new generation is justified THIS time for sure.
If only there way some way to obtain this ancient knowledge. Perhaps a video repository of sorts. But I’m sure the hand wringing about new generation is justified THIS time for sure.
youtube can help maps and checks... but its not easy to find manual transmissions anymore.
A tip I got here a while ago is to use dry brass/copper sponges instead of wet sponges to clean the iron, because water stresses it too much. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Non-slip/d...
it's better, but still abrades
More importantly, the lesson I learned was to get a soldering system\station where you can get replacement tips easily\cheaply
More importantly, the lesson I learned was to get a soldering system\station where you can get replacement tips easily\cheaply
Whenever I teach soldering to someone, I try to keep it short - and tell that the only things they really need to know is
1) Keep the surfaces of the two metals you want to solder clean. That means removing rust, oxidation, dirt, etc. If possible, make a mechanical connection.
2) The three metals (surface A, surface B, solder) need to be equal temperature.
9 out of 10 times, the solder errors I see are due to the above points. It is important to purchase an iron that can get hot enough for the things you want to solder together, and which can control the temperature well enough.
1) Keep the surfaces of the two metals you want to solder clean. That means removing rust, oxidation, dirt, etc. If possible, make a mechanical connection.
2) The three metals (surface A, surface B, solder) need to be equal temperature.
9 out of 10 times, the solder errors I see are due to the above points. It is important to purchase an iron that can get hot enough for the things you want to solder together, and which can control the temperature well enough.
Yeah the most common mistake is actually not cleaning well and not heating all things up that need to be heated (e.g. trying to use the soldering iron like a "brush").
When I instruct people to solder, I emphasize that heat transfer improves when you press very firmly with the soldering iron tip.
Too bad most PCB holders are flimsy. I recommend a solid metal vise instead of those contraptions.
Too bad most PCB holders are flimsy. I recommend a solid metal vise instead of those contraptions.
> It’s a metal alloy comprised of tin and lead (often 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead) used to bond items together.
No more lead in the EU, with few exceptions.
No more lead in the EU, with few exceptions.
Learning on lead-free nearly turned me off of soldering until a buddy gave some Kester eutectic, that is a freaking joy compared to lead-free
Lead-free is fine.
Lead-free with poor quality flux is abhorrent to use.
Get good quality lead-free with good flux from a reputable manufacturer (Kester is good, as you mentioned) and it's fine.
In fact, I prefer how thin and quick to wet out SAC305 is over the lower melting point of Sn63Pb37.
Lead-free with poor quality flux is abhorrent to use.
Get good quality lead-free with good flux from a reputable manufacturer (Kester is good, as you mentioned) and it's fine.
In fact, I prefer how thin and quick to wet out SAC305 is over the lower melting point of Sn63Pb37.
I have made quite a few keyboards (including handwired) and a few other electronics projects with lead-free solder and it has never been an issue. I use lead-free solder with a resin core, set the iron to the recommended temperature, and make sure to tin the tip.
Lead solder is totally attainable for hobbyists - I bought a 100g spool a few weeks ago.
Yeah tbh I’d rather struggle a bit more than have lead in the mix. Lead is for life
If you're getting lead poisoning from soldering, you're doing it very, very wrong...
Build a ventilation system for your soldering area, it's more than worth it if you're going to be doing much soldering (and is also useful for many other purposes). The best option is a fan connected to vent tubing leading outside, I doubt 'smoke extractors' are that effective, e.g.
https://ribbeckeglass.com/ventilating-soldering-fumes/
https://ribbeckeglass.com/ventilating-soldering-fumes/
- No mention of tip types/quality
- No mention of flux outside that embedded in the solder
- No mention of braid etc
- Recommends a wet sponge to clean (This shocks the tip)
- Defaults to leaded solder without mentioning the risks (I admit this is hot-take territory!)As long as you wash your hands after soldering, leaded solder is fine. Lead-free solder is harder to work with and never comes out as good as leaded solder.
What do you suggest other than wet sponge to clean the tip? I usually try and use a damp sponge, instead of a wet one. This is how I learned like 20-25 years ago as a kid though. I never learned how to professionally solder.
"Brass wool", basically a clump of brass shavings, is quite popular as well. I sometimes use that, sometimes use a damp sponge and I don't find any giant difference between the two. Some people say the brass type are better (more thorough cleaning, less thermal difference, etc.) and some say they are worse (wears the plating off the tips faster)
I actually forgot about the brass you're talking about. I've seen it used, but never used it myself. I only occasionally solder though, just a few times a year either to fix something or to make a simple electronic project kit. I rarely do it correctly, I usually just heat my iron up and solder the item, the only thing I do generally is "tin" what I'm soldering first.
This type with a brass or copper scrubber work great:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Cleaner-599B-Water-free-Hak...
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Cleaner-599B-Water-free-Hak...
Brass wire sponge works great.
Good article (although I would also add my vote to "do not buy the cheapest iron" group).
It would be great to include a few ideas on what to try in this "how to get started" guide. It can be anything from an artsy soldering of a few small metal pieces to a custom switch to a simple electronics contraption. Or even a link to a few Make magazine mini-projects.
This could move the needle from reading a cool article to actually trying it. My 2c.
It would be great to include a few ideas on what to try in this "how to get started" guide. It can be anything from an artsy soldering of a few small metal pieces to a custom switch to a simple electronics contraption. Or even a link to a few Make magazine mini-projects.
This could move the needle from reading a cool article to actually trying it. My 2c.
As a strictly software person who's been living in the embedded world for a while, developing adequate soldering skills will make your life hella easier. Lots of setup/debugging problems get easier if you can just make the connectors you need or stick a lead in just the right spot.
Being self-reliant for stuff like that is basic productivity stuff.
Being self-reliant for stuff like that is basic productivity stuff.
any good resources you recommend to someone who is a software person not living in embedded world?
As a few people have mentioned, YouTube is a treasure trove of instructions on how to use test equipment like multimeters/oscilloscopes/etc. to see if stuff's alive and responsive. Ins and outs of JTAG is also handy and practical. If you want to go deeper, intro books on electronic circuits and some of the online MIT electronics classes are great.
Yeah wouldn’t go ultra cheap on first iron. Something like the pinecil is a good compromise especially if you have a power source on hand that can power it (eg some laptop bricks work)
Pace's videos on youtube are old timey but charming and useful for basic soldering
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
By far my favorite. I'd pay even if they were given to me for free.
The first -- and only -- time I ever soldered was on a job interview! The company was making gastric pacemakers and wanted to see if I could do it. One of my favorite job interviews for some reason. I have a tough time with the "code in front of the interviewer"-style interviews but this was actually kind of fun.
That said, I don't feel like I've had the need to bust one out since then. I'm sure there are useful times for it, but for me, I typically replace the item or pay someone to fix it and move on with my day.
That said, I don't feel like I've had the need to bust one out since then. I'm sure there are useful times for it, but for me, I typically replace the item or pay someone to fix it and move on with my day.
Of course the first thing to learn is how to pronounce the sodding word /s
I would recommend starting with a kit so that you also get the benefit of feeling like you created something valuable as your practice/learn. Something like this is great for the price! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X13KY6S
have you used this one? I'd like to buy it, I'd just want to hear that someone used this successfully.
I use it as a clock for my workbench and power it from a USB port. Fun little kit.
Yes, my son built is a few weeks ago, no issues and works great!
can you recommend any starter soldering iron to go with it? I guess all we would need is a starter solder iron and some solder to complete the clock. Looks like fun!
The article doesn't actually teach how to solder. Just a few tips but not practical instructions to follow. As an example this sentence: "so we’re going to start by adding solder to both the wire and the pad that it’s being soldered to—this process is often referred to as tinning."
Doesn't give a single hint on how to do it...
Doesn't give a single hint on how to do it...
Thank you, this is great!
On another note, what to solder?
I've been playing around with arduinos and esp 32s but so far I've just used breadboards and didn't have to solder. Any recommendations for an easy project to take on?
Adafruit tends to sell things like their feather boards with loose headers, leaving the buyer to solder them. If you like playing with stuff like that it would give you an excuse to buy more boards.
Timely; I just finished soldering headers to a Feather about 30 minutes ago. :)
Timely; I just finished soldering headers to a Feather about 30 minutes ago. :)
A mechanical keyboard is a decent project to learn on. I built a Pinky4 kit when I was starting out, since you can't easily buy a keyboard like it already assembled. (Ergodox/Moonlander have bad thumb clusters)
Yeah, don't cheap out on the soldering iron. If you have to, at least get yourself a t12 clone. For $50 you should be able to find a decent one with extra tips and accessories. Anything less is a waste of money and will bring frustration.
I found the eevblog tutorial videos very helpful in setting up my office for soldering and getting comfortable doing through hole soldering, connecting wires etc.
Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
Part 3 is surface mount which I don't do much. A friend I had who is a skilled assembler turned me on to chipquik flux and kapton tape to hold down the parts and that helped immensely
Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
Part 3 is surface mount which I don't do much. A friend I had who is a skilled assembler turned me on to chipquik flux and kapton tape to hold down the parts and that helped immensely
Fumes are best avoided. They contain mercury.
True story: I was testing the quality of the water from a property I was thinking of buying and got a hit for high levels of mercury. I called the test manufacturer and asked for a few more tests to confirm the levels and the guy asks "done any soldering in the area within the last TWO WEEKS", I had been soldering the taillight / trailer connections on my van about two or three weeks prior and that was enough to leave detectable levels of mercury lingering in the undercover outdoor area where I conducted the tests.
True story: I was testing the quality of the water from a property I was thinking of buying and got a hit for high levels of mercury. I called the test manufacturer and asked for a few more tests to confirm the levels and the guy asks "done any soldering in the area within the last TWO WEEKS", I had been soldering the taillight / trailer connections on my van about two or three weeks prior and that was enough to leave detectable levels of mercury lingering in the undercover outdoor area where I conducted the tests.
I've never heard of solder with mercury in it. I'm surprised anyone would sell something like that.
I was taught soldering in middle school. Probably did it three or four times in my life outside of that.
Didn't do a great job, but it worked. If I cared about it being done well, I would have gotten a craftsman.
Didn't do a great job, but it worked. If I cared about it being done well, I would have gotten a craftsman.
The article doesn't mention any protective eyewear. When soldering use safety glasses - the heated flux flies everywhere and it's not fun when a hot droplet hits you in the eye.
I am not soldering without safety glasses, lab coat and nitrile gloves. May seem like an overkill, but the flux really goes everywhere and it's not good for your health.
Also don't forget to have a fume extractor! - you don't want to breathe the fumes!
If you can't get one, at very least ensure you have a fan that will blow it away from your face.
I am not soldering without safety glasses, lab coat and nitrile gloves. May seem like an overkill, but the flux really goes everywhere and it's not good for your health.
Also don't forget to have a fume extractor! - you don't want to breathe the fumes!
If you can't get one, at very least ensure you have a fan that will blow it away from your face.
This Youtube playlist helped me immensely.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837
Am I missing something? The article says:
> As you’re applying heat with your soldering iron, it’s important to have the metal tip heating both the pad and the solder that’s going onto it—note the location where I’m placing the iron.
But there's no picture to "note the location where I'm placing the iron" in? Was this article written somewhere else and repurposed and they missed a picture?
> As you’re applying heat with your soldering iron, it’s important to have the metal tip heating both the pad and the solder that’s going onto it—note the location where I’m placing the iron.
But there's no picture to "note the location where I'm placing the iron" in? Was this article written somewhere else and repurposed and they missed a picture?
No mention of toxicity of the fumes? No mention of needing a 3rd hand for many soldering you will want to do?
That's because the fumes aren't toxic, they're just an irritant. 3rd hand? If you need to secure the workpiece, get a vise.
I do a lot of hobby level soldering. If the iron has a stand, temp dial, and a sponge it’s plenty good to get started with. Don’t spend more than $75. A real panavise is also a wise investment, you can find them second hand pretty easily.
If you enjoy it I recommend a curie point thermaltronic or maybe metcal.
I love mine, never having to calibrate the tip is wonderful. Having the power draw ramp up quickly on a big ground plane is a joy.
Not fussing with a bullshit temp setting is utter simplicity.
Truly is a joy to use.
I love mine, never having to calibrate the tip is wonderful. Having the power draw ramp up quickly on a big ground plane is a joy.
Not fussing with a bullshit temp setting is utter simplicity.
Truly is a joy to use.
Metcal e.g. MX500 is built like a tank and often available cheap on eBay. I picked up a bargain priced unit on a whim and it's been great.
Used it to get the controller out of an ebike battery yesterday :D
Used it to get the controller out of an ebike battery yesterday :D
Louis Rossmann recommends this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4CLAKG
Soldering taught me how physical engineering and chemistry were oh so subtle. And how even simple circuits we rely on daily are kinda work of art.
For me the issue wasn't learning to solder, it was learning about electricity and the kinds of things I wanted to solder in an intuitive way
My hands simply shake too much and always have to do detailed soldering work - my kingdom for a simple and inexpensive automatic solderer!
Do you have any of these for welding? I'd like to get started on welding. Soldering is cool though, thanks for sharing.
What, no pre-cleaning? No flux remover spray? Lead solder with no exhaust fan?
Using lead solder is kind of retro. There are good lead-free solders now. If you get the kind with 3% silver, you pay $5 instead of $3 for a small spool, but it's much easier to get good results. Also, that stuff is no-clean, which simplifies things.
Using lead solder is kind of retro. There are good lead-free solders now. If you get the kind with 3% silver, you pay $5 instead of $3 for a small spool, but it's much easier to get good results. Also, that stuff is no-clean, which simplifies things.
At my workplace, I've taught a number of younger colleagues how to solder. They come in with laboratory science degrees but varying levels of manual skills. I try to explain what makes a better soldering iron, and I think the 3 key ingredients are:
1. High quality plated tips with a reliable supply chain for replacements. Find a catalog supplier for the tips before ordering the iron.
2. A timer greatly promotes tip life if you're forgetful like me, and also placates colleagues / family members who are concerned about safety. Newer units have a built-in timer, older ones can use a cheap Belkin outlet timer.
3. Temperature control, which most soldering "stations" come with.
As for solder, lead-tin is easiest to use, but if you're committed to using lead-free, some alloys work better than others. I recommend Kester K100 as being the closest to "almost like lead-tin" due to a relatively low melting point and decent flow properties.
A magnifying visor or inspection microscope is extremely valuable for soldering fine pitch IC's.
Learning to be quick about forming a joint saves on melting the insulation of wiring and some delicate connectors.
1. High quality plated tips with a reliable supply chain for replacements. Find a catalog supplier for the tips before ordering the iron.
2. A timer greatly promotes tip life if you're forgetful like me, and also placates colleagues / family members who are concerned about safety. Newer units have a built-in timer, older ones can use a cheap Belkin outlet timer.
3. Temperature control, which most soldering "stations" come with.
As for solder, lead-tin is easiest to use, but if you're committed to using lead-free, some alloys work better than others. I recommend Kester K100 as being the closest to "almost like lead-tin" due to a relatively low melting point and decent flow properties.
A magnifying visor or inspection microscope is extremely valuable for soldering fine pitch IC's.
Learning to be quick about forming a joint saves on melting the insulation of wiring and some delicate connectors.
Personally, I found high-powered reading glasses to be really helpful for soldering. They're cheap, available at any dollar store, and much more comfortable to use than visors.
I'll give them a try. Also while on the subject, I'm mildly nearsighted and find when I'm working on some kinds of tools, taking off my glasses and wearing non prescription safety glasses is just right.
If you're mildly nearsighted, you'll probably want low-power reading glasses then (in the +1 to +2 range). Bring a circuit board with you when shopping for glasses and see which power works for you. High-power (+5) glasses will probably be too much. Higher-power magnification gives you more zoom, but at the expense of field-of-view, and can just be annoying.
[deleted]
Damn, paywalled. Seems timely though, I was just about to start with an incredibly basic iron a friend game me that seems to have no temp control, unleaded solder, flux
> Much like the ability to drive a car with a manual transmission, read a map, or write a check, Gen Z is learning less and less about how to work with their hands—and it’s time for that to change.
Ugh. Let's talk down the youngest generation of adults to justify a basic tutorial article.
Ironically no one of Gen Z, that I know of, is unable to do any of those examples.
Ugh. Let's talk down the youngest generation of adults to justify a basic tutorial article.
Ironically no one of Gen Z, that I know of, is unable to do any of those examples.
"Please don't pick the most provocative thing in an article or post to complain about in the thread. Find something interesting to respond to instead."
https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html
https://news.ycombinator.com/newsguidelines.html
While I can see why you might take that as "talking down the youngest generation of adults", I don't think that is necessarily the author's intention.
All three of those examples are things that many people from Gen Z often don't ever do. They are also all still valuable skills that I believe are still worth knowing.
I agree that it is bad to talk down to people just because they are young. It is also bad to dismiss people because they are significantly older than you are. Both parties miss out when those things happen. Younger people often have more energy and free time, and their excitement about what they are learning can be energizing. Older people often have experience that is tremendously valuable. You can learn a great deal from someone with years of experience in a field in which you have interest.
I think one of the unfortunate things about the internet is it is far too easy to default to being combative, and assume the worst about what others are saying. And yes, I include myself in that as well as others.
All three of those examples are things that many people from Gen Z often don't ever do. They are also all still valuable skills that I believe are still worth knowing.
I agree that it is bad to talk down to people just because they are young. It is also bad to dismiss people because they are significantly older than you are. Both parties miss out when those things happen. Younger people often have more energy and free time, and their excitement about what they are learning can be energizing. Older people often have experience that is tremendously valuable. You can learn a great deal from someone with years of experience in a field in which you have interest.
I think one of the unfortunate things about the internet is it is far too easy to default to being combative, and assume the worst about what others are saying. And yes, I include myself in that as well as others.
I don’t quite get the thrust of most of your post beyond that you have a more generous understanding on the quote.
As I get your post based on the amount spent on why it’s bad to dismiss older persons, I don’t think this is really what the article or GP suggested. similarly, I am not sure that it’s fair to say genz often doesn’t do a lot of the mentioned things. GenZ is full of individuals specializing in niche or old fashioned skills and showing the skills off on specific mediums. Coding and repair twitch streams are quite common, just maybe not as much as subjects that are easier to appreciate without much knowledge in the subject. It’s pretty easy for most people to grasp why a contortionist’s skill or someone skilled with sewing has a rare and unique talent. it’s a lot easier to understand what went into it and the precision and the result is very apparent. I think it’s not so clear with subjects like electronics repair as the tech might work afterwards, but there is too much to understand going into it to fully appreciate the result in its own, and thus audiences rely on the presenter to fill the gaps.
The authors examples are good ones if you’re already inclined towards fixing stuff on your own; but if it were me, even with a simple fix like string lights, i’d have a hard time justifying repairs on my own as i’d need to invest into the repair kit and it would be hard to shake concerns on if I did a safe repair or if I made a mistake that needs to be fixed. I imagine it’s like this for many, as even a few years back when I did laptop repair at a university, students (even technical ones) were antsy about such manual repairs and fixes, and often just preferred to put the liability on someone else. for something really disposable like lights, a cheap phone, etc, i can easily get why people of all ages would just prefer a new one.
Soldering is a fun hobby, and i think that the hobbyist community would easily eat it up if they don’t already (i’m positive you can find some electronics repair vids/channels). it is just lacking practical reasons for people to be interested and/or personalities to bring people to it.
As I get your post based on the amount spent on why it’s bad to dismiss older persons, I don’t think this is really what the article or GP suggested. similarly, I am not sure that it’s fair to say genz often doesn’t do a lot of the mentioned things. GenZ is full of individuals specializing in niche or old fashioned skills and showing the skills off on specific mediums. Coding and repair twitch streams are quite common, just maybe not as much as subjects that are easier to appreciate without much knowledge in the subject. It’s pretty easy for most people to grasp why a contortionist’s skill or someone skilled with sewing has a rare and unique talent. it’s a lot easier to understand what went into it and the precision and the result is very apparent. I think it’s not so clear with subjects like electronics repair as the tech might work afterwards, but there is too much to understand going into it to fully appreciate the result in its own, and thus audiences rely on the presenter to fill the gaps.
The authors examples are good ones if you’re already inclined towards fixing stuff on your own; but if it were me, even with a simple fix like string lights, i’d have a hard time justifying repairs on my own as i’d need to invest into the repair kit and it would be hard to shake concerns on if I did a safe repair or if I made a mistake that needs to be fixed. I imagine it’s like this for many, as even a few years back when I did laptop repair at a university, students (even technical ones) were antsy about such manual repairs and fixes, and often just preferred to put the liability on someone else. for something really disposable like lights, a cheap phone, etc, i can easily get why people of all ages would just prefer a new one.
Soldering is a fun hobby, and i think that the hobbyist community would easily eat it up if they don’t already (i’m positive you can find some electronics repair vids/channels). it is just lacking practical reasons for people to be interested and/or personalities to bring people to it.
In your third paragraph, you point out a few things: 1) the emotional anxiety of doing the repairs, 2) putting the liability on someone else, 3) disposibility or products. You mention these as reasons of why not to do the repair yourself.
All of those reasons are the main critisms of gen Z and millenials! I'm not a boomer, but:
1) Emotions are preventing repairs?? A bit of stoicism is needed. If you have the habit of repairing things, there is no anxiety. In the old hacker culture you'd think it would be a fun opportunity to disassemble and see how it works and repair it.
2) Takes some reponsibility and risks instead of putting the liability on someone else. The end result is people who are less reliant on others, less finger pointing.
3) The article is trying to promote repairing skills instead of consumer culture. Repairing and better built products instead of filling landfills.
You also mention "i'd need to invest into the repair kit"... it's cheaper to repair than buy new! As you collect tools and experience, there's more and more opportunity to repair, which adds more tools and experiences... a great positive feedback loop.
All of those reasons are the main critisms of gen Z and millenials! I'm not a boomer, but:
1) Emotions are preventing repairs?? A bit of stoicism is needed. If you have the habit of repairing things, there is no anxiety. In the old hacker culture you'd think it would be a fun opportunity to disassemble and see how it works and repair it.
2) Takes some reponsibility and risks instead of putting the liability on someone else. The end result is people who are less reliant on others, less finger pointing.
3) The article is trying to promote repairing skills instead of consumer culture. Repairing and better built products instead of filling landfills.
You also mention "i'd need to invest into the repair kit"... it's cheaper to repair than buy new! As you collect tools and experience, there's more and more opportunity to repair, which adds more tools and experiences... a great positive feedback loop.
I think you're conflating anxiety with practical caution and a recognition of lack of skill/interest in developing that skill.
Presuming you're not a surgeon, would you be willing to do an appendectomy on someone? It's a typical procedure that is well documented and at this point very routine for most surgeons, and with just a bit of research and practice, you can be doing all sorts of other surgeries.
Emotions AND logic prevent us from doing relatively routine/simple/safe things all the time.
I _can_ solder and do basic electronic repairs; I've done it plenty and in a pinch with enough time to research, I can probably pull it off. I rarely do however, because:
1. It's an investment in time and equipment that I may not have on hand for items that don't need frequent repairs
2. For the electronics I have, it voids the warranty, and if I screw up, then I'm on the hook for everything, so effectively there is a fine for screwing up
3. For most electronics I have around me, they are prohibitively complex and important enough to my day to day that living without them while I learn and research is quite costly
My point isn't that people are too anxious to do repairs, I have no idea how you took this interpretation. I don't trust my electrical engineering skills because I don't have them developed well, so I think it's prudent to not take on an electrical project like house wiring because I lack the experience to ensure it's done well and there is risk if it's done poorly. This isn't anxiety, it's a practical cost analysis. I don't personally need to do such repairs frequently (either by myself or with the help of a contractor), so an investment in these skills falls more under hobby than a practical skillset, and for the items that have needed repair, self-repair means then liability falls on me entirely, and if I do get in over my head, the cost for repair goes up as it's no longer covered under the repair warranty in many cases. That last point arguably is a fault of overly-broad EULAs and Terms of Use contracts, but it is the situation right now whether I like it or not.
Finally, as someone who did do electronics repair (and later programming), there are definitely issues that I was/am tasked with where someone unqualified tried their hand at it first and made what was a minor issue a major problem due to inexperience. I would have vastly preferred that the person(s) never tried to touch the issue since what they did just exacerbated the issue or introduced new issues instead of making it better.
It's a logical and reasonable cost-benefit calculation, and I can absolutely get even as a technically capable person why many GenZ wouldn't want to get into electronics on the basis of repair; it's the wrong introduction in my opinion and carries too high a cost of failure for most of electronics we use in every day life. That is why I think that a hobbyist approach, small electronics projects, etc, are a better gateway into electronics. The cost is failure is quite low (you just don't get whatever you're trying to build), the same skills for making the electronics carries over to repairs and builds the skillset and confidence for making the repairs, and it helps establish the wisdom to better assess if you can DIY or if a specialist is a better choice. All of the people I know who are big into car repair have that wisdom to know when it's better to take it to a shop that has the right equipment and experience versus what can be done at home in the garage.
Presuming you're not a surgeon, would you be willing to do an appendectomy on someone? It's a typical procedure that is well documented and at this point very routine for most surgeons, and with just a bit of research and practice, you can be doing all sorts of other surgeries.
Emotions AND logic prevent us from doing relatively routine/simple/safe things all the time.
I _can_ solder and do basic electronic repairs; I've done it plenty and in a pinch with enough time to research, I can probably pull it off. I rarely do however, because:
1. It's an investment in time and equipment that I may not have on hand for items that don't need frequent repairs
2. For the electronics I have, it voids the warranty, and if I screw up, then I'm on the hook for everything, so effectively there is a fine for screwing up
3. For most electronics I have around me, they are prohibitively complex and important enough to my day to day that living without them while I learn and research is quite costly
My point isn't that people are too anxious to do repairs, I have no idea how you took this interpretation. I don't trust my electrical engineering skills because I don't have them developed well, so I think it's prudent to not take on an electrical project like house wiring because I lack the experience to ensure it's done well and there is risk if it's done poorly. This isn't anxiety, it's a practical cost analysis. I don't personally need to do such repairs frequently (either by myself or with the help of a contractor), so an investment in these skills falls more under hobby than a practical skillset, and for the items that have needed repair, self-repair means then liability falls on me entirely, and if I do get in over my head, the cost for repair goes up as it's no longer covered under the repair warranty in many cases. That last point arguably is a fault of overly-broad EULAs and Terms of Use contracts, but it is the situation right now whether I like it or not.
Finally, as someone who did do electronics repair (and later programming), there are definitely issues that I was/am tasked with where someone unqualified tried their hand at it first and made what was a minor issue a major problem due to inexperience. I would have vastly preferred that the person(s) never tried to touch the issue since what they did just exacerbated the issue or introduced new issues instead of making it better.
It's a logical and reasonable cost-benefit calculation, and I can absolutely get even as a technically capable person why many GenZ wouldn't want to get into electronics on the basis of repair; it's the wrong introduction in my opinion and carries too high a cost of failure for most of electronics we use in every day life. That is why I think that a hobbyist approach, small electronics projects, etc, are a better gateway into electronics. The cost is failure is quite low (you just don't get whatever you're trying to build), the same skills for making the electronics carries over to repairs and builds the skillset and confidence for making the repairs, and it helps establish the wisdom to better assess if you can DIY or if a specialist is a better choice. All of the people I know who are big into car repair have that wisdom to know when it's better to take it to a shop that has the right equipment and experience versus what can be done at home in the garage.
> Just 2.4% of our cars sold today have stick shifts.[0]
Gee, I wonder why these stupid kids aren’t familiar with manual transmissions.
[0] https://www.carmax.com/articles/stick-shift-index
Gee, I wonder why these stupid kids aren’t familiar with manual transmissions.
[0] https://www.carmax.com/articles/stick-shift-index
Gen Z will be one of the most practical generations in history, thanks to Youtube.
Curious where you are finding a sample of Gen Z members who can all drive manual transmission?
I live in Portugal and you'll find more Gen Zers (with a drivers license) afraid of driving an automatic than a stick shift.
If you've never driven one, automatic cars feel super dangerous as you can accelerate indefinitely even when unconscious, and even in a normal situation your left foot clutch muscle memory will make you push the brake (to the floor) without meaning to as well.
If you've never driven one, automatic cars feel super dangerous as you can accelerate indefinitely even when unconscious, and even in a normal situation your left foot clutch muscle memory will make you push the brake (to the floor) without meaning to as well.
My GenZer wants to learn but we literally don't know a single person who owns a manual transmission car. Well we know one but it's a cousin who lives 1500 miles away and we really only see at weddings and funerals.
In countries that are not the USA?
I am Gen Z (1999), and learnt how to solder by being told to build a radio from scratch by my father. I had to source my own materials, find schematics, figure them out on my own at age 11.
I consider myself extremely lucky my childhood wasn't one where I was given an iPad at age 4 to fry my brain completely.
I am Gen X and I have never written a cheque in my life. Manual transmission and maps I am ok with.
For myself, writing cheques have been a case of supporting the older generation(s)
My GenZ child wrote their first check a few months ago. The State Department doesn't take cash or credit cards for passport applications. The guy at the post office talked them through it and their passport arrived last week.
A decade from now they'll write their second check and have to be talked through it again.
A decade from now they'll write their second check and have to be talked through it again.
Based on the spelling, you’re probably not from the US. Until recently, there were really no “free” ways to give independent contractors money except cash or check. That’s changing, slowly.
You're Canadian. I'm surprised you didn't write cheques for rent, like I did when I lived in Canada.
No, Australian and we have been depositing money for things such as rent directly into people's bank accounts via telephone and internet banking for as long as I can remember. Well, no. I have a dim memory of taking my landlord big wads of cash in the early 90s.
Most of the passport application/ renewal process is online, but for a child passport you just go to the post office and tap your card as if you were paying in the supermarket.
I remember my dad's chequbook. It's kind of quaint to think they're still in use, like if you went into a shop and they still had that pneumatic tube system for sending messages.
I didn't know Australians use "cheque" as well, I thought that was a French term!
Most of our spelling is UK variant (aka King's English, haha) so I guess maybe French in a roundabout way
The point of the article is to propose it as a fun thing to do on the side. But who solders as a hobby? I’m a millenial, and I have broken out my dad’s soldering equipment a handful of times because I wanted to try fixing something myself. (I’d hazard a guess that’s cultural more than generational, but maybe not.)
I don’t know that this article did such a good job making the case for soldering as a hobby in so much as it lays the groundwork for someone who might need to use this tool to fix something his/herself. And that should be the emphasis.
I can drive a manual car, swim, and perform CPR — supposedly the three things an adult should know, but damn it if I spend more time in my workshop hunched over molten metal. I got other things to enjoy, as I’m sure many people younger than myself do too.
I don’t know that this article did such a good job making the case for soldering as a hobby in so much as it lays the groundwork for someone who might need to use this tool to fix something his/herself. And that should be the emphasis.
I can drive a manual car, swim, and perform CPR — supposedly the three things an adult should know, but damn it if I spend more time in my workshop hunched over molten metal. I got other things to enjoy, as I’m sure many people younger than myself do too.
Those damn degenerate Gen Z kids, can you believe they didn't spring fully formed into the world knowing how to do everything I now know how to?? /s
> Gen Z is learning less and less about how to work with their hands
But it has more and more sources of learning in comparison to my ones when I was in their age.
But it has more and more sources of learning in comparison to my ones when I was in their age.
The author is 25 (gen z) and has done multiple car reviews / car product reviews that feature his own car which is a manual...
you are blessed. I know millennials who can't do any of those.
I'm Gen X and the only way I knew how to drive a manual was because of video games.
Let's talk down the youngest generation
You're not the younger generation anymore.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generation_Alpha
no one of Gen Z, that I know of, is unable to do any of those examples.
"That I know of" is the hallmark of Gen Z: Thinking that their experiences are the only experiences.
Taking the manual transmission example, there were a number of items in the news back when manual transmission was more common about Millennial and Gen Z would-be car thieves being unable to drive away because they didn't know how to use a stick.
But since you didn't know them, they must not exist.
You're not the younger generation anymore.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generation_Alpha
no one of Gen Z, that I know of, is unable to do any of those examples.
"That I know of" is the hallmark of Gen Z: Thinking that their experiences are the only experiences.
Taking the manual transmission example, there were a number of items in the news back when manual transmission was more common about Millennial and Gen Z would-be car thieves being unable to drive away because they didn't know how to use a stick.
But since you didn't know them, they must not exist.
> youngest generation of adults
Gen Alpha are yet to become adults
> that I know of
A disclaimer, as I am more than aware my experience is just that, my own.
Just like my experience and viewpoint probably differs with other factors
Gen Alpha are yet to become adults
> that I know of
A disclaimer, as I am more than aware my experience is just that, my own.
Just like my experience and viewpoint probably differs with other factors
Ah yes, the 12 year old adults, how could they have forgotten.
I beg to differ.
I used to suck at soldering, and while I'm still no expert, swapping my €20 basic soldering iron for a serious Weller unit (starting at €150) changed everything. The Weller heats up almost instantly, goes up as high as you want, and stays at a constant temperature.
When using bad tools you don't know if it's you or the tools that are bad, and the path to improvement is unclear.